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A dodgy early experience with gin has led to JONATHAN RAY having an uneasy relationship with the stuff'.
On the other hand, his wife loves it and he keeps hearing that it's the new in' thing.
To bring himself up to date, he pays a visit to the Hendrick's distillery and finds himself developing a taste' for the quirky gin from William Grant & Sons.
This revelation soon leads to a proper home-made tasting session with 15 friends and 12 gins. Gin of the evening (and my favourite) is Martin Miller's Westbourne Strength (29.99; Harrods, Selfridges),' Ray concludes.
Prize for the most alcoholic option goes to Blackwood's 60 Superior Vintage Dry Gin, 60% abv (24.99; Harvey Nichols and independents).
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It's the second instalment of the Grard Depardieu-inspired, French special for MATTHEW JUKES this week, and his selection of regional whites shows 'why France still sits at the top of the world's fine-wine league'. This week's particular 'wow' is 2004 Chteau Tour Lognan Pessac-Lognan, Bordeaux (9.99; Waitrose).
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If there's one aspect of French culture that we find almost impossible to resist, it's their world-class food and wine,' says JAMIE GOODE.
French wine went through bit of a down period a few years ago, becoming the source of wine lake plonk' but there's plenty of value for money available now, such as the beautifully fruity 2004 Stone Road Shiraz, Vin de Pays d'Oc (4.49; Co-op).
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While Spanish whites have previously been considered a little second class by the Spaniards, JOANNA SIMON reports that changes are afoot.
Whites made from the Albario grape in Ras Baixas are now ultra-fashionable, and Rueda's Sauvignon-like Verdejo is coming up fast at comfortingly reasonable prices.'
Other more obscure options can also be worth a try, and these include 2004 Gaba do Xil Godello (6.99; Adnams).
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Wine consumption might be down in France and Australia but it's up in the UK and the US, reports RICHARD EHRLICH.
In the latter two countries, there seems to be no shortage of money sloshing around for the right stuff', he expains.
As far as spending this money goes, the recent vintage from Bordeaux is a good bet and Ehrlich suggests taking a trip to Lea and Sandeman for some expert advice.
For those who want to drink their reds now, he recommends 2004 El Dueo Shiraz (4.99; Marks & Spencer).
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Domaine de Chevalier in Bordeaux was sold to the Bernard family in 1982, and JANCIS ROBINSON MW wonders why 'it has failed to maintain its leadership' in recent years. One of the major reasons, she says, is 'its high proportion of young vines', which were planted under the new ownership. But the new vines are growing older, and, according to Robinson, 1996 is the turning point: from then on, 'the wines seemed to get better and better, particularly in 2001, 2003 and 2004.'
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MATTHEW JUKES celebrates Spain and says that there are better Spanish wines on the shelves today than ever before'. He's picked out his top selection from this year, including 2004/5 Torres Via Esmeralda, Peneds (4.66-6.29; Oddbins, Tesco, Waitrose, Wine Rack): The value for money and crowd-pleasing aroma and flavour of Esmeralda is staggering.'
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Sushi and sashimi are now as popular with the snack-food crowd as with the set that valet park their Maseratis at Nobu,' observes ANTHONY ROSE.
London now has more than 160 Japanese-style restaurants, he continues, and with this advent of new cuisine, the issue of wine matching has also been addressed. Alessandro Marchesan, sommelier at Zuma, has done the research and he shares some of his findings with Rose.
His suggestions include trying a New Zealand Riesling with a dish such as yellowtail with green chilli relish with a ponza (bitter orange and soy) sauce, or a spicy Aussie Shiraz with rich meats like miso-marinated lamb. Matching Japanese food to Western wines can be a playground for the adventurous,' concludes Rose.
His top wine for splashing out on is 2004 de Bortoli Yarra Valley Reserve Shiraz (19.99; Oddbins Fine Wine).
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JANE MacQUITTY has made up her mind and Riesling can breathe a sigh of relief. For the perfect summer drink, Chardonnay might be a bit too Dolly Parton' and Sauvignon Blanc doesn't suit everyone, but Riesling perfectly echoes the season's produce'.
Many people have been put off Germany's star variety over the years, says MacQuitty, due to the cloying, ersatz wines that washed up here in the Sixties and Seventies', so it's still possible to find a number of bargains.
Newcomers should start with 2004 Bird Label Riesling, Lingenfelder (6.19; Oddbins), or for German sceptics, she suggests 2005 Private Bin Villa Maria, Marlborough Riesling (6.99; Waitrose, Majestic).
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'When I started writing about wine 30 years ago, there was one wine that truly enjoyed iconic status: Hermitage La Chapelle 1961,' says Jancis Robinson MW. As readers of Harpers will know, the producer of La Chapelle, Paul Jaboulet An in the northern Rhne, was sold to Swiss financier Jean-Jacques Frey last week. 'This is great news for wine enthusiasts because Frey has an excellent track record of upgrading properties such as the classed-growth Chteau La Lagune in the Haut-Mdoc.'
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South African wines have never really been JONATHAN RAY's thing - I've usually found that the reds taste of burnt rubber and the whites of acid drops.'
A visit to Stellenbosch, however, prompts a change of view and Chenin Blanc is the first grape to make an impression. I'm on my second glass of 2005 Raats Wooded Chenin Blanc and I'm loving every drop.'
A Pinotage dinner is next on the itinerary and Ray is unenthused about the prospect of spending the evening with his least favourite of all red grapes'. But he's pleasantly surprised once again, saying: I am completely won over. Pinotage is South Africa's USP.'
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GILES KIME plays sommelier and suggests trying a bottle of 2004 Tesco Finest Muscadet (4.99) with avodaco and tomato mayonnaise or a touch of 2004 Errazuriz Merlot (5.99; Tesco) with Chilean steak served with pimientos and green olives.
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Perhaps Big Phil' Scolari could have been persuaded to take on the role of England football manager had he been plied with the right drinks, says ANDREW NEATHER. Some worthy Portuguese tipples could have included 2003 Dom Rafael Tinto Alentejo (7.95; Berry Brothers & Rudd) and 2005 Quinta das Setencostas, Alenquer (6.99; Oddbins).
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Screwcaps are in favour with JOANNA SIMON this week: The jury's still out on screwcaps for long-term cellaring, but for everyday wines, I'd always choose them. She recommends trying the chocolate and tobacco' 2003 De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot (5.99; Oddbins); the full, ripe' 2004 Capel Vale Mountain Duck Shiraz Merlot (7.99, or 5.33 if you buy three for two; Wine Rack, selected Thresher); and the brilliant Kiwi' 2005 Blind River Sauvignon (9.99; Oddbins).
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Matthew Jukes recommends dinner-party wines from independent wine merchants around the country. Selections include 2004 Ribolla Gialla, Sirch, IGT delle Venezie, Italy (8.20, Tanners of Shrewsbury), 2004 Mcon-Villages, Mise Tardive, Verget, Burgundy (8.95, Lay & Wheeler of Suffolk), 2004 Serpaiolo Rosso, Serpaia, Maremma, Tuscany (7.99, Adnams); 1990 Montlouis Grains Nobles, Domaine des Liards, Loire (25, Yapp Brothers of Mere); 2004 Chteau Roubaud, Tradition, Costires de Nmes (6.25, Yapp Brothers); Wine of the Week is 1998 Chanoine Champagne, Blanc de Blancs (down 15 to 14.99 until Valentine's Day, Tesco).
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It's a time of year when I find myself irresistibly led towards a single, cool glass of Sancerre ros,' says VICTORIA MOORE. One of the chief joys of this particular type of pink is its paleness, she continues. Why are so many of the ross you find in this country a deep, ripe-raspberry near-red?' The Sancerre stamp on the label means the cheapest of these wines are around a tenner but Moore thinks they're worth it. Try 2005 Domaine Vincent Delaporte Sancerre Ros (11.75; Lea & Sandeman). Moore's question from a reader this week is: What wine do you use to cook with? Will just anything do?' She replies that this is certainly not the case saying: After all, you wouldn't make spaghetti carbonara with artisan pasta, free-range eggs and Tesco Value bacon would you?' Her advice would be to use wines such as the simple, lemony Mcon Villages Cave de Prisse (4.99; Waitrose) or the highly respectable' 2004 Bourgogne Chardonnay (6.99; Marks & Spencer).
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MATTHEW JUKES presents a few seriously good' Italians this week such as the hypnotic, tropical' 2004 Litorale Vermentino, Cecchi Maremma, Tuscany (7.99; Waitrose), 2005 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Coste del Molino, Marche (5.99 or 4.79 if you buy two; Majestic), which is bursting with crisp, floral and citrus notes', and 2004 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Umani Ronchi, Marche (3.66 to 4.49; Waitrose, Wine Rack) - This is a cracker. If you are looking for a bargain red to serve with a monster pasta or pizza meal, then this is it.' This week's Wow is 2005 Moscato d'Asti, Saracco, Piedmont (8.49, or 6.79 for two; Majestic), which Jukes describes as one of the most exciting moscatos I have ever tasted'.
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RICHARD EHRILICH searches for some products with a real USP and finds a smoothie made with fresh fruit instead of fruit pure, called I Am Fresh (1.95 for 250ml; selected Waitrose) and an exceptionally good' single-estate coffee: Ethiopia Yirgacheffe Highlands Coffee (2.89 for 227g; Sainsbury's).
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Every January, six independent wine merchants, together called The Bunch, gather for a joint tasting. Their original aim was to highlight 'wines that they have and supermarkets don't'. But it takes a real effort to beat the supermarkets, reports JANE MacQUITTY. She discovers that, while 'weird wines are not always wonderful', The Bunch does have a few real stars, such as the 'sensational, scented, raspberry-stacked' 2004 Vin de Pays Catalan Carignan, Ferrer-Ribire (8.75; Adnams, Tanners).
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There's no theme from MATTHEW JUKES this week, only a mission to pick out the best wines he's tasted in the past seven days: A motley crew, but every one is a first-class drop.' This week's Wow is 2005 Blind River Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough (9.99; Oddbins), which Jukes describes as nothing short of extraordinary'.
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