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GILES KIME goes in search of soft velvety reds, and his selection takes in the 'dangerously drinkable' 2003 Cosumano Benuara Nero d'Avola/Syrah (8.49; Oddbins) and the 'wonderfully plummy' 2004 Chteau Pey La Tour Bordeaux (5.99; Tesco).
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JAMIE GOODE has gone autumnal, and 'with seasonal squashes and pumpkins to pair off', he suggests weighty wine matches. Two examples are 2004 Asda Chilean Chardonnay, Central Valley (2.97; Asda) and 2003 La Piuma Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (4.99; Waitrose).
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Spain's not just about Rioja, comments JOANNA SIMON, and she suggests a few gems - such as 2003 Castell del Remei, Gotim Bru (7.09-8.75;
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JONATHAN RAY abandons wine in favour of a day in the pub with the Beer Academy. A day-long foundation course teaches him all about the brewing process at the same time as reminding him that beer can be 'healthy and nourishing'. Ray quotes his tutor, enthusing, 'Beer is so good for you, it should be on the NHS as a prescribed medicine.' His top beers include Wychwood Whirlygig, Oxon (1.60; Asda).
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'The online tippler's review' is a growing trend, writes RICHARD EHRLICH. Waitrose has joined ranks with Oddbins in a move to include customer wine reviews on its website. Not everything is published - for example, a bottle of Menetou-Salon accompanied by the comment 'I enjoyed this wine with cigarettes' didn't make
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Portugal rules, according to TIM ATKIN MW. Chelsea Football Club's Portuguese manager Jose Mourinho has given his country's wine the seal of approval after sharing a bottle of Barca Velha with Sir Alex Ferguson, and this 'plug for a Portuguese wine was welcome because it's so rare'. Atkin bemoans the fact that 'our high-street retailers have virtually given up on Portugal'. And even worse, 'Mateus Ros & still accounts for 40% of Portuguese wine sales in the UK a rather depressing story'. He's 'more convinced than ever that the country is producing some fantastic-value wines', and his top choices to prove this point include 2004 Quinta do Ameal Loureiro Vinho Verde (8.40; Corney & Barrow) and 2003 Quinta do Vallado Douro Reserva (17.99; Bibendum).
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JANE MacQUITTY is not happy with the British public, saying 'the average spend [on a bottle of wine] remains a depressingly low 4.09'. Supermarkets are still ruling the roost, and MacQuitty urges readers to spend a bit more. Her recommendations include
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ANTHONY ROSE plays his part in the latest top-100 list, helping consumers to 'sort the wheat from the chaff'.
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It's family time for VICTORIA MOORE, as she discovers that her parents' wine cellar is in need of a few 'big wintry reds that will go with anything and don't require special treatment, and which average 5 a bottle.'
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JANE MacQUITTY discusses Hiroshi Tanaka's invention for speed ageing wine. She recommends 2004 The Little Penguin Chardonnay and Shiraz (3.99 each; Sainsbury's), 2004 Cuve St-Vran and Mercurey, Blason de Bourgogne (6.49 and 7.98; Tesco), 2002 Montagny 1er Cru, Vincent Bouzereau (12.99; Majestic) and 2000 Pavillon des Conntables, St-Julien, Bordeaux (14.99; Majestic).
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'Things are looking a little brighter for Bordeaux's wine business,' says JANCIS ROBINSON MW, following the latest reports from this year's harvest. With fine-wine trading on the up, due to the imminent inclusion of wine in pension funds, Robinson takes a look at the past 10 vintages from France's famous wine region. 'Drought was a serious problem' in 2005, 'but rain arrived in time to save the crop'. The 2003s 'have calmed down considerably, almost as though they've had a cold shower,' she reports. 2000 was the 'please-all, big-boned vintage', and 1997 brought 'mild, well-mannered wines for drinking now'. Detailed tasting notes on all of the vintages are featured on the Purple Pages of Robinson's website: www.jancisrobinson.com
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ANTHONY ROSE delves into the changing role of the sommelier and takes a look at two new books on the subject: Thirsty Work by Matt Skinner (17.99; Mitchell Beazley) and Drinks by Vincent Gasnier (30; Dorling Kindersley). The increasingly popular Skinner steals most of the column space, with Rose commenting, 'If someone is going to get my 19-year-old son and his ilk across Jacob's Creek and beyond, Skinner has the knack.' Gasnier doesn't fair quite so well. While Skinner is 'refreshing' and 'selective', Gasnier's 'undoubted passion and knowledge are deflated by a dj vu image fest'. If you fancy splashing out this week, Rose's choice would be 2003 Cte Rtie Les Essartailles (25, down to 19.99; Majestic).
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JONATHAN RAY visits Super-Tuscan Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, where he finds wines to rival the best from Bordeaux.
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JAMIE GOODE comes up with drinks for Caribbean food. They are Havana Club 7 Aos rum (15.99; Oddbins), 2004 La Chasse du Pape Chardonnay/ Viognier (4.99; Sainsbury's, Waitrose, Co-Op, Asda), Sailor Jerry Spiced Caribbean Rum (12.99; Waitrose), 2004 El Prado Tempranillo Ros (3.99; Tesco) and Duval beer from Belgium (1.48; Tesco).
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Wines to go with duck from Giles Kime are 2004 The Maverick Chenin Blanc (7.99; Majestic), 2003 Tim Adams Shiraz (9.99; Tesco), 2002 Tesco Finest Californian Reserve Viognier (4.99), 2002 Lizards of Oz Reserve Malbec (6.99; Asda) and 2003 Fitou Les Quatre (8.99; Waitrose).
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VICTORIA MOORE discusses the French habit of serving wine by the pichet. She recommends 1997 Chteau les Ormes de Pez, St-Estphe, (15.50; uk.chateauonline.com) and 2000 Chteau la Vieille Cure, Fronsac (14.99; Sainsbury's). On what to match with curry, Moore likes 'the junipery fizz of a gin and tonic', believing wine isn't made for curry. Nevertheless, she likes Viceroy White (5.99; wineforspice.com).
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Joanna Simon wants to start a 'one-woman campaign to persuade growers worldwide to give the Mansengs a go' -
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JONATHAN RAY follows in the footsteps of Thomas Jefferson and discovers Virginia, 'America's fifth-largest quality wine-producing state'. He comes across the 'appetising-sounding Scuppernong grape', and with '100 registered wineries' and an ongoing investment in wine tours, Virginia, ventures Ray, 'might just be the next big thing.' His wines of the week include 2004 Zamora Zinfandel, California (6.99; Marks & Spencer).
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JANCIS ROBINSON MW tries to avoid a hangover with a push for less alcohol in today's wines. She has noticed the beginnings of an 'uprising [against high levels of alcohol] among thoughtful wine producers', but is unconvinced by most of the techniques that have been tried so far. But perhaps Grard Gauby of Roussillon has found a solution. His Muntada wine used to be just short of the 15% mark, but 'since 2000 he has been completely biodynamic. And now his wines taste quite different just as flavourful but with more acidity and less alcohol and obvious sweetness.'
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JANCIS ROBINSON MW comments on the number
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