Ahead of our 30 Under 30 2025 list, which will be announced in May at the London Wine Fair and published in the June issue of Harpers, we caught up with some of last year’s top winners to gets their views on hospitality.
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The spring weather finally bounced into view at the end of last month, coinciding with a less-than-sunny outlook for UK businesses via Chancellor Rachel Reeves’ Spring Statement. In the lead up to Reeves’ address, there was hope that businesses would be given a reprieve from the tax hikes announced in the last Autumn Budget. In the end, the 26 March statement was labelled a missed opportunity for failing to reduce, or even scrap, the increases announced in October 2024.
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Ever been greenwashed? It’s not always as obvious as you might think. Some companies’ use of “greenwashing” – hyping their record to make it sound greener than it is – is blatant. In 2022 the Advertising Standards Authority ruled against fruit drinks company Innocent over an ad that strongly linked its products to protecting the environment. The message ran: “Innocent. Little drinks with big dreams for a healthier planet.” Complainants pointed out that the company’s products come in single-use plastic bottles and that it’s owned by Coca-Cola (which generated an estimated 3.22 million tonnes of plastic waste in 2021).
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France has become one of the leaders in sustainability protocols in the 21st century, with its myriad regions now producing a network of best-practice roadmaps which can be used in the wine world’s global fight against climate change.
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When Véronique Cochran first converted Château Falfas to biodynamic agriculture in 1989, it looked unconventional. Fast-forward to today and many of the methods she uses at her vineyard in Bordeaux’s Côtes de Bourg – not using chemical pesticides, growing cover crops between vines – seem mainstream. Such is the march of organics and biodynamics in Europe in recent decades. But today those shifts are part of a wider sea change towards more sustainable production.
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To describe the current macroeconomic environment as challenging would be a distillery-sized understatement. Yet the growing ethos on buying local, a natural corollary of the gradual shift towards sustainably produced wines and spirits, has given stakeholders cause for (tentative) optimism in 2025. The question is: can a movement transform into a stampede?
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The glass bottle has been a fixture of the wine world since the 17th century, while the earliest examples date back to the Roman era. Impermeable and inert, it remains the universal vessel of choice, but a growing consumer awareness of its carbon footprint could yet threaten that status, meaning its days would be numbered. Estimates vary, but glass production accounts for up to half the CO2 in a typical bottle of wine. The material is energy intensive, with gas used to heat furnaces to 1,700ºC for its manufacture. Then there’s the impact of shipping as bottles, many of them needlessly heavy, are hauled across the world, with the IWCA (International Wineries for Climate Action) estimating that transport accounts for 15.9% of the average winery’s emissions. Theoretically, glass has an infinite life – the UK boasting one of the better recycling rates at 74.2%, according to British Glass – but the process is notoriously complex, requiring rigorous colour sorting, and it uses energy.
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After an unprecedented run of success, gin has hit some problems: consumption is falling and the industry is going through a painful process of consolidation. “The days of seeing a new gin brand appear almost every week are over,” observes Martin Reid, co-founder of The Gin Cooperative. “Unfortunately, we will see many gin brands vanish over the next two years.” Yet the weakening of the craft sector does not tell the whole story – not by a long shot.
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Innovation and reinvention are prerequisites for any dynamic wine industry, but Portugal is in a league of its own. For years winemakers here have been rediscovering indigenous varieties, experimenting with new styles and exploring terroir. The Douro has moved well beyond Port to also produce the highest quality red and more recently white wine. Minho – home of Vinho Verde – now produces complex, often single varietal wines from native Alvarinho, Loureiro and other varieties alongside the spritzy poolside wines for which the region has long been famous.
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Spring is a joyous time of year but any vineyard operator will tell you it fills them with trepidation. Grape vines first exhibit bud burst at this time of year, a vital stage in the growth cycle. New shoots and green tips emerge on the vine, the very first signs of what will become a cluster of grapes. These nascent buds are also very vulnerable to frost damage, a particular concern in places such as the UK.
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Growth spots in the global spirits industry are offering an encouraging counter-picture to the moribund health of wine sales – although the category is having to come to grips with challenges impacting long-term premiumisation trends and the instability of major markets such as China.
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In light of rum’s recent success, the subject of rhum agricole, the category’s quieter and less well-known cousin (at least outside La Francophonie), has swung back into the conversation at Harpers. Made minus the molasses, rhum agricole offers up a fresh, grassy and slightly green flavour from its sugarcane juice-only recipe. This in turn offers an undeniable point of difference to the traditional molasses-based rums which make up 98% of the world’s production, according to statistics from Markwide Research and its Global Rhum Agricole Market report.
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One of the more fascinating events of the year so far was the inaugural Mediterranean Wine Symposium, convened at the Perelada estate in Emporda, where an ambitious programme of presentations sought to define what it means to be a ‘Mediterranean’ wine producer and whether this could mean more than just being a ‘state of mind’.
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Achieving B Corp status is all the rage in the drinks trade today as companies look to show off their sustainability credentials.
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Becoming the drinks industry’s answer to the Michelin Guide is no easy feat. As Hannah Sharman-Cox, co-founder of The Pinnacle Guide, says: “It’s one of those things where other people have said ‘I had that idea too’. But no one has actually done it, have they?”
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Reserve Wines’ willingness to keep things fresh and adapt in an ever-evolving wine market has meant accolades and praise have continued to come the Manchester-based merchant’s way. When one digs a little deeper, decoding why the Harpers 50 Best Indies 2025 winner has continued to succeed is fairly simple.
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Importers face a fine balancing act heading into 2025, continuing to present a diverse, well-priced portfolio offer while being beset by the cost shocks of duty rises, EPR and National Insurance rises, to name just a few. For specialist importers of South American wine navigating this puzzle can feel notably headache-inducing, particularly because naturally high-abv wines such as Argentinian Malbecs will be harder hit by duty changes. This is a challenge as these wines’ very taste and style can rely upon this higher alcohol content.
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For decades, Chile has been synonymous with value-for-money wines, pushing out reliable, well-structured reds and crisp whites that have found homes on shelves across the world. But at the heart of this wildly diverse country is one of the more impressive stories of terroir exploration to emerge in the 21st and latter 20th century.
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“I always get asked ‘What comes after Malbec?’ and my response is always: ‘More Malbec!’”. Santiago Achával’s quip has become a familiar refrain in Argentina’s wine circles, and many other winemakers share a similar sentiment. While Argentina produces a wide array of grape varieties, Malbec remains its undisputed flagship, both in vineyard plantings and global reputation.
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Argentina’s economic situation often presents a challenge for those producing and exporting wine – and the current climate, following yet more twists and turns, remains as complex and convoluted as ever. Following the marked devaluation of the peso in December 2023 as the new far-right president Javier Milei swept to power on a ticket of dramatic economic reform, a turbulent year was followed by the re-election of Trump in Argentina’s biggest export market, which may now help rather than hinder the industry.
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