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European winemakers 'unprepared' for EU reforms

Published:  11 August, 2009

The most radical reform of EU wine law for more than a generation came into force this week amid widespread concerns that European winemakers and governments are unprepared to take full advantage of the new legislation.

The most radical reform of EU wine law for more than a generation came into force this week amid widespread concerns that European winemakers and governments are unprepared to take full advantage of the new legislation.

The reforms, which include major changes to Europe's appellation system, labelling and winemaking practice, are the second part of the EU's wide-ranging overhaul of the wine CMO, passed by the European Commission in December 2007.

They join the measures introduced in August last year, which included subsidies for grubbing up underperforming vineyards and increased funds for generic marketing.

Speaking on the launch of the second phase of the reforms, Mariann Fischer Boel, the EU Commissioner for Agriculture, said: "Member states and producers have a great opportunity to make the best use of the new wine regime to build on Europe's international reputation for excellence. I truly believe this marks a turning point in our wine sector's history."

But Fischer Boel added she was concerned about the take-up of funds, with only 30% of the Euro794 million budget for 2009 so far allocated. And she warned member states that time was running out. "I must urge member states to show urgency in using the new funds which are available. Money from the national envelopes must be used by October 15, or else it will be lost."

There are fears, too, that wine producers in Europe are not ready to take advantage of the most controversial of the new measures - the reform to the Vin de Table category that enables producers to put vintage and varietal on the label for wines produced from the 2009 vintage onwards.

"I think it's quite surprising how unprepared [producers] are about this," Stuart Grundy, supplier development manager (Europe) for Bibendum, told Harpers. "I speak to a number of large negociants and regional co-ops in France, Spain and Italy and very few of them have strategies in place. In Italy they're nowhere with this."

Tim North, UK director of Les Grands Chais de France, said much of the French industry would find it difficult to make the most of the legislation because it is regional-based, and therefore not set up for sourcing blends from across the country.

But he added his company was reviewing which of its brands (which include JP Chenet and Kiwi Cuvée) would go into the revamped Vin de Table category (which is likely to be renamed "Vin de France" in that country).

And he welcomed the changes. "I think it gives France, and Europe, a good opportunity to create mass-market blends in a way it couldn't before, and will help them to compete with the New World," North said.

EU reforms at a glance

- EU wine will be divided into three categories
- Appellation d'Origine Protégée (AOP), for AOC or DOC/G wines
- Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP) for IGT and Vins de Pays wines
- Vin de Table, which will now be permitted to include varietal and vintage date on the label, even where it is sourced from many different EU countries
- OIV-approved winemaking practices such as the use of oak chips and reverse osmosis permitted in the EU from August 1
- Grubbing-up scheme aims to reduce total EU vineyard by 175,000ha
- Package of support measures rising from E794million in 2009 to E1.231billion in 2013

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