Guy Woodward: Aussie identity crisis

The new ad for Penfolds Grange is, essentially, everything that Australian wine shouldn’t be right now. Bland, weighty, pretentious, lavishly produced but devoid of place or identity. Or, as Penfolds describes it: “The shimmer of discovery lingers at the edge of perception. Vivid, layered with contrast and elusive qualities: Grange’s emotional terrain. A world in a moment.” Even Premier Estates’ horrendous You Can Almost Taste the Bush ad, banned after complaints from Wine Australia among others, did at least reference Australia.