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Oregon and Washington's winemaking coalition

Small in volume but mighty in terms quality and varietal diversity, the two regions remain focused on the UK as a priority market. The UK was one of a handful of countries that the regions exported to when they first began looking outwards around two decades ago, along with others such as Japan.

Today, the two regions remain united by both cultural synergies and topography. Representing 7% of US production volumes, Washington and Oregon are united by the Columbia River and collectively apply for federal funding as a north coast coalition which seeks strength in numbers for promotional activities and the export market.

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Distinct they are, however. Divided by the region’s mountainous landscape, cool climate viticulture focused on Burgundian varieties reigns in Oregon with the proximity of the Willamette Valley and other key areas to the sea. On the other side of the Cascades, a rain shadow creates Washington’s dry, arid climate where over 80 grape varieties are cultivated.

Washington’s soils lead with a volcanic basalt foundation, topped with gravelly flood sediments and windblown loess, while Oregon’s three soil types are volcanic, sedimentary and silt-based soils.

According to Chris Stone, vice president of Washington Wine, the climate remains unbothered by rain during harvest, making it “ideal, with a huge diurnal shift, crisp nights, and unbelievable consistency. This holds true for all Bordeaux varieties in Washington. The wines seem to be gaining a reputation of having the beautiful fruit of the New World but also the structure and acidity of the Old.”

Margaret Bray, director of international marketing of Oregon Wine, also drew to attention to Oregon’s stylistic and varietal diversity.

“There’s a lot of experimentation going on. We don’t have to plant certain varietals in certain areas, and there’s still land to plant. So while we always will be known for our Pinot Noirs, we’ve seen a shift in Chardonnay which is increasing rapidly. We’re not saying we don't make lovely Pinot Gris; it’s just economics in that you can charge more for Chardonnay. We’ve seen a completely change in style in how we make Chardonnay from when we started. But we’re also now seeing different varieties coming in. When you think you think of Oregon, you think of really two things, or maybe just one. But we have 77 varieties now, so we do like to get that message out,” Bray said.

All of this was on show last Thursday, which showcased 233 SKUs (92 of from Oregon and 141 from Washington State).

Washington still very much leads with Cabernet Sauvignon. The grape accounts for a sixth of the state’s total annual crush, followed by Chardonnay, Riseling, Merlot and a mix of other varieties which includes, but is not at all limited to Malbec, Sangiovese, Gewurztraminer, Viogner and Semillon.

Among that list is also Cabernet Franc, which continues to establish itself as a rising star in terms of plantings and stylistic potential.

“Cabernet Franc is often blended with the other Bordeaux varieties, but it’s beginning to stand alone,” Stone said. “It’s really making all types of really premium wine: lean, unoaked, almost vegetal styles, almost all the way up to very oaked styles. I’d say it’s Washington’s answer to Pinot Noir.”

Pinot Noir, of course, is the predominant variety grown in Oregon, with 59% of vineyard area. However, the state’s diversity of geography and various microclimates have given sway to a host of other varieties. These are led by Pinot Gris (14%), Chardonnay (7%), Syrah (4%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (4%) alongside a significant number of inherently interesting but often under-sung 70+ varieties.

Despite all this, Washington and Oregon remain young regions. Earnest vineyard exploration and expansion falls within the past 50 years, though much is changing rapidly. The red-focused Beverly AVA, for example, only demarked at the end of 2024. It is one of the smallest appellations in the state and illustrates the ongoing work to further define the Columbian Valley via its sub-zone AVAs.

Production is on the small side too. Despite being the second-largest wine region in the US, Washington accounts for only 4% of total production. Average bottle price sits at approximately £40 rrp in the UK, which aligns with the state’s premium positing. Equivalent data isn’t currently available for Oregen, though this is where both regions are looking to –rightly – hang their hats.

“We’re a young region and still trying to work out where best vineyards are,” Stone told Harpers. “For Washington, Cabernet Sauvignon has been driving growth in vineyard acreage. It’s our number one growth driver, definitely. Next is Syrah, and all the Rhone varietals have been given tones of attention, as well as Merlot. Merlot doesn’t get nearly as much love as it should around the world.

“The future is unknown; we just need to keep pushing. We have truly compelling wines, we just need to keeping getting the story out there.”

Bray joined in the chorus, pointing out that both regions “punch above their weight in terms of quality versus price. They are relatively expensive wines, but they offer a lot. We need to keep plugging away at that message.”

• UK market
• Pinot Noir
• Chardonnay
• Oregon
• Cabernet Franc
• Columbia Valley
• Washington
• coalition
• Columbia River