For a 'cheat's dinner party' of leek vinaigrette with eggs and chives, Moroccan spatchcock with couscous and tzatziki followed by caramelised roast apples, GILES KIME recommends 2004 Shingle Peak Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc (7.29; Sainsbury's), 2004 Errazuriz Estate Shiraz (5.99; Sainsbury's) and Muscat de St Jean de Minervois (3.99 for 37.5cl; Sainsbury's).
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Jamie Goode struggles to match wines to winter veggies, of all things. He goes for fruity, flavoursome reds for glugging. They include 2002 Don Reca Limited Release Merlot (9.99; Waitrose, Sainsbury's); 2004 Caves Saint-Pierre Ctes du Rhne Villages Preference (6.99; Tesco); 2001 Kingston Empiric Selection Durif (5.99, Morrisons); 2004 Nepenthe Tryst (6.99; Oddbins, Asda, Waitrose, Somerfield); and 2004 La Basca Uvas Blancas, Via de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon (4.99; Marks & Spencer).
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JAMIE GOODE is bowled over by South Africa, saying, 'The wine scene is so vibrant here that it's hard to keep check of what's going on.' He advises on a few top bottles such as 2005 Vergelegen Sauvignon Blanc, Helderberg (7.99; Tesco, Sainsbury's) and 2004 Porcupine Ridge Syrah, Coastal Region (6.99; Waitrose).
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The Gaucho Grill chain of Argentinian restaurants impresses ANTHONY ROSE with its wine lists, the fruits of Phil Crozier's passion. Notable mentions come for Vicien Bonarda, 2005 Crios de Susana Balbo Torronts Cafayate, Norton Privada, O Fournier Bcrux Tempranillo and 2002 Finca Flichman Paisaje
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A 'paradigm of modern rural Englishness' is how VICTORIA MOORE describes the Wiltshire village of Heytesbury, where she drank Wylye Valley wines - all of them whites and named after fishing flies: Watson's Fancy, Teal and Green, and Coachman. 'Never mind headlines about sparkling English wine beating Champagne in blind tastings,' she writes. 'Only when we see more of it drunk thoughtlessly will we begin to be a proper wine-producing country.' Nevertheless, in her Drinks Q&A, Moore recommends Chapel Down Extra Dry NV (11.99; Sainsbury's).
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Deep in the Wicklow Hills of Ireland, JONATHAN RAY meets 'the Brooke Shields of cows', one of a herd of 100 that supplies milk for Baileys. It's 100% natural, no preservatives, using top-quality cream from the healthiest of cows, eating the lushest of grass, apparently.
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JANE MacQUITTY gets 'heartily fed up of other commentators whingeing about' high alcohol levels. She asks so what if a blood, guts and thunder Aussie red weighs in at 14.5% alcohol, or a majestic, dark, brooding South African Syrah at 14.7%, as long as the wines is balanced and the alcohol integrated.
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JOANNA SIMON compiles a three-page guide to 'a stellar cellar'. Among her listings, there is a panel of 'names you can trust' among the brig brands. Her list includes Torres, Concha y Toro, Cono Sur, Peter Lehmann, Yalumba, De Bortoli, Villa Maria, Montana, Robert Mondavi, Santa Julia, Calvet and Douthe.
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JANCIS ROBINSON MW shows her family side with a visit to the Symingtons of Oporto. The charms of the 'wild' and 'beautiful' Douro valley are not lost on Robinson, but she also recognises that 'it's not easy to stay afloat in the Port business. As Paul [Symington] points out, recent mergers and acquisitions in the global drinks business have seen most Port companies involved dropped like hot potatoes.' According to Robinson, the new generation of this premium Port company sees 'the future firmly based in unfortified dry wines labelled Douro rather than Port'.
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JAMIE GOODE would be lying if he said Sherry was hip, but he does think 'it is an unappreciated and wonderful drink, not to mention amazing value for money'. For those with a sweet tooth he suggests Lustau East India Solera Rich Oloroso Sherry (7.99/50cl; Waitrose); and for those with a drier palate, Asda Fino Sherry (3.74) or Tesco Finest Dry Oloroso Sherry (5.05).
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RICHARD EHRLICH is adamant: 'The term "good, low-priced sweet wine" is almost as great a contradiction in terms as "President Bush's left-wing advisers". It just never happens.' And this, he explains, is largely because 'the grapes have to be individually selected followed by hand-sorting at the winery'. However, if you can't afford to spend 250+ for a bottle of Chteau d'Yquem, Ehrlich recommends 'three Waitrose sweeties', such as 2002 Chteau Jolys Cuve Jean, Juranon (9.99/50cl). Or for those who are feeling lucky, Ehrlich suggests trying out an offer from Lay & Wheeler: buy an unmixed case of wine for a chance to buy a bottle of 1990 Yquem for 25. 'Think of it as a win-win bet,' he says. 'If you don't win the Yquem, you've still got 12 good bottles. And if you do win well, I'm free for dinner on whatever night you plan to drink it.' Plenty to play for then.
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OANNA SIMON discovers that gin has come a long way since 'the dismal state of the gin market in the early 1990s'.
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Although the idea of drinking Champagne and eating oysters has long held a 'glamorous potency' for VICTORIA MOORE, she couldn't help but notice that 'oysters don't really go with Champagne'. The classic French bubbly is 'simply too elegant and too refined to match against this primal force', thinks Moore. Instead, she recommends 2004 Tesco Finest Muscadet Sur Lie (4.99) or 2004 Beranger Picpoul de Pinet, Coteaux du Languedoc (4.29; Booths).
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Despite its odd choice of presenters - Jono Coleman ('a podgy beachball with a mullet') and Wendy Namby ('whose sense of humour appears to be buried deeper than a chalk cellar in Champagne') - TIM ATKIN MW admires The Joy of Wine. The DVD and wine-tasting package, which can be yours for 49 plus 5 postage, is aimed at simplifying wine for consumers, and Atkin finds it 'a useful, comparatively jargon-free introduction to Bordeaux'.
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With more than a slight element of disbelief, VICTORIA MOORE reports that 'expensive Asian food has begun to lead people back to Riesling'. A good 'pin-sharp' example, says Moore, is 2004 Casillero del Diablo (5.99; Oddbins). And if Riesling is the grape of the moment, Spain is the country, producing wines 'made in a modern style but with enough interest and culture to grip Old World aficionados'. Try 2004 La Basca Uvas Tintas (4.99; Marks & Spencer).
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ANTHONY ROSE is 'on the case to see you through the festivities', with a guide to 12 wines for 'splashing out' and
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JANCIS ROBINSON MW fronts a four-page guide to festive eating and drinking with her guide to reds, whites, sweet wines and apritifs.
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JAMIE GOODE spoils himself with a fizz fix and recommends his 'top 10 tipples to sip with your canaps'. Two examples are Jacob's Creek Chardonnay/Pinot Noir Brut Cuve NV (7.99; Budgens, Somerfield) and Wyndham Bin 555 Sparkling Shiraz, Australia (7.99; Morrisons).
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Iceland's Reyka is 'a seriously good vodka with a seriously interesting background', says Richard Ehrlich. It's made from water that's so pure it doesn't need to be distilled, and Ehrlich is 'smitten'. He also recommends some Kiwi Sauvignon Blancs, including 2004 Nobilo Five Fathoms (5.49; Sainsbury's).
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The practice of reputable wineries producing exclusive labels for supermarkets is a good idea, 'in theory', says VICTORIA MOORE. But it can also 'be confusing for those who like wine enough to know a bit about it but not enough to hoover up details as if studying it for Mastermind', because the 'exclusive' wine can be so different from the producer's normal output. A pair of Barolos by Terre da Vino presented a case study. One 2001 Terre da Vino Barolo (14.99) was produced exclusively for Marks & Spencer and tasted 'markedly richer' than 2001 Terre da Vino Barolo La Mora (14.99; Majestic), which was 'nothing fancier than the wine as the winemaker made it' - and all the better for it.
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