Although the idea of drinking Champagne and eating oysters has long held a 'glamorous potency' for VICTORIA MOORE, she couldn't help but notice that 'oysters don't really go with Champagne'. The classic French bubbly is 'simply too elegant and too refined to match against this primal force', thinks Moore. Instead, she recommends 2004 Tesco Finest Muscadet Sur Lie (4.99) or 2004 Beranger Picpoul de Pinet, Coteaux du Languedoc (4.29; Booths).