With more than a slight element of disbelief, VICTORIA MOORE reports that 'expensive Asian food has begun to lead people back to Riesling'. A good 'pin-sharp' example, says Moore, is 2004 Casillero del Diablo (5.99; Oddbins). And if Riesling is the grape of the moment, Spain is the country, producing wines 'made in a modern style but with enough interest and culture to grip Old World aficionados'. Try 2004 La Basca Uvas Tintas (4.99; Marks & Spencer).