Jancis Robinson considers diversification in New Zealand's North and South islands to avoid the trap of becoming "a one-trick pony" with an over reliance on Sauvignon Blanc. The marked shift to Pinot Noir has already begun and there are a number of other interesting examples cropping up also, she says. The 2007 Marlborough, Astrolabe Riesling retails for around 13 a bottle in the UK and is a good example of "today's New Zealand Rieslings increasingly seem to be modelled on Australia's bone dry Clare Valley examples". Robinson also picks out the 2007 Pinot Gris Wairarapa, Gladstone Vineyard (11, Great Western Wine) for its Alsace weight. "All in all, New Zealand whites are much more varied than they used to be," she concludes.
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"Discount the cheapie" at your own peril is the message from Victoria Moore this week. The subject is house wines and she feels "a bottle that's tasty and not too particularis a far more useful buy than anything extreme". As such, there are a couple of interesting highlights that emerge. Moore embraces a 2005 Riesling, Peter Lehman Eden Valley (7.99, Noel Young) for its "elusive" quality and 2006 a Campo de Borja, Vineyard X Garancha (4.99, Thresher) which offers "outrageous" flavour for the price point.
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Founder of Wine Relief, JANCIS ROBINSON MW, takes the opportunity to promote the cause in this week's column. She says that we can [and presumably should] buy wine to solve some of the world's mainfold injustices'.
She believes that M&S, Majestic and Waitrose have the most sophisticated Wine Relief selections on offer, while Tesco has the widest range, starting at 1.27 for a bottle of Lambrini (on which the donation to Wine Relief would be 12.7p).
Robinson's recommendations include 2006 Eaglevlei Sauvignon Blanc, Western Cape (5.49; Sainsbury's) made by Englishman Tony Hindhaugh.
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Nouveau Beaujolais reaches Tim Atkin's attention this week. The "quintessential young wine's" fall from grace has seen it go from "front page news" in the mid-Eighties to a current "non-event" in the UK. The problem with Nouveau stemmed from the fact that it undermined the Beaujolais reputation as a whole, he argues. And while Atkin concedes "there's nothing wrong with Nouveau" it is the "hilly area north of Lyon" that in fact produces the best wines. There are ten crus but it is usually easier to split these into three groups, he says. These comprise of: "The light, fragrant ones (Chiroubles and St Amour), the middle-weight ones (Cte de Brouilly, Chnas, Brouilly, Fleurie, Rgni) and the more serious ones (Julinas, Morgon and Moulin Vent)." His recommendations include a 2006 Fleurie, Domaine de la Madone (11.99, Thorman Hunt) for its "crunchy, summer-pudding-like" nature and a "complex and structured" 2006 Morgon, Marcel Lapierre (14.73, Bibendum).
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Jancis Robinson's musings focus on Davos and a tasting she recently organised there. Her brief was "to choose some notable wines from countries or regions with a tradition of mining". In between visits from the president of Israel and Forbes magazine's seventh most powerful woman in the world, she even found time to identify the best of the bunch. 2001 Vergelegen Cabernet Sauvignon (12.99, buywineonline.co.uk) fared well - particularly notable as the only South African red at the tasting and also the least expensive. The tasting group's favourite and Jancis' third choice wine was the 2001 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River (43, winesearcher.com).
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Like his contemporary at The Observer, Anthony Rose has also picked up on Anpaa's recent legal case - describing France's alcohol policy as a result of the draconian 1991 Evin Law. He continues: "It does seem odd that myopia and sanctimony should coexist in a nation synonymous with the production and consumption of many of the great wines of the world." Not to be discouraged though he selects the 2006 Porta Chardonnay (5.99, Threshers), the 2006 Gavi Cristina Ascheri (9.99, Sainsbury's) and the 2004 Domaine des Bosquets, Gigondas (14.95, Jeroboams).
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Poor VICTORIA MOORE is not a happy journalist, complaining that the samples she had to try this week were not all that nice'. As a consequence she decides to use two of her four recommendation slots to list wines not to buy'. One wine she thinks is quite nice isdoes give the thumbs up to is 2004 Bastide Saint Vincent Vacqueyras Pavane (10.75; Berry Bros & Rudd).
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Ignore the "good but rarely great" 2006 Burgundy vintage at your own peril, states Jane MacQuitty. While the heavyweight 2005 vintage "slumbers on", we can be enjoying the "fruity, forward 2006" in the meantime. And her choices for doing so? Well, there are several but Lamy's St Aubin ler Cru Les Frionnes. Barthod's Bourgogne Rouge and Chambolle-Musigny all make the list as does Rossignol-Trapet's Chapelle-Chambertin. (120 - 900 per case from specialist merchants).
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Warming winter reds are the order of the day for Jamie Goode. Among his picks are Churchill Estates 2005 Douro (8.99, Majestic) for its "warmth and intensity" and Mont Tauch Fitou 2005, Languedoc (3.98, Asda) for its price point and its suitability "with any winter casserole".
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Victoria Moore evaluates some of the better Champagnes available while pointing out it is "not just for parties and toasting new jobs". Taittinger Prelude Grands Crus NV (35.99, Majestic) is "supremely elegant and full of grace" and worth trading up for from the ordinary Brut Reserve, she says. 1996 Fleury (38, Vintage Roots) rates high in Moore's affections also with its "honeyed, pillowy nougat flavours" and its biodynamic pedigree.
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This week, French NGO Association Nationale de Prvention en Alcoologie et Addictologie (Anpaa) has really got Tim Atkin's goat. The "alarmingly puritanical" group that deals with the illegal promotion of alcohol in France recently won a case for a Champagne advert in magazine Le Point. "Even in America, the land of pointless lawsuits, this would be regarded as over the top", Atkin argues. On the wine front his recommendations - with alcohol content henceforth included in the column - featured a 2006 Petit Chablis, Jean de Chaudenay (6.99, Sainsbury's) and La Monacesca Verdicchio di Matellica (7.99, Waitrose).
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Why sit in a bath of baked beans for charity, when you can have a nice glass of wine instead, asks TIM ATKIN MW? Wine Relief runs until 16 March and until that date 10% of the value of certain wines at participating retailers goes to Comic Relief. Atkin reviews the selections offered by those participating, as well as naming the retailers conspicuous by their absence - Oddbins and Asda.
Tesco, M&S, Majestic and the Co-op are offering an interesting range, whereas Somerfield and Morrison's offering is dull'. Atkin has a dig at the host of branded wines. He says, I suspect some brand owners regard Wine Relief as just another opportunity to promote their wines.' Wherever did he get that idea?
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No MATTHEW JUKES, just some decanters - from the Admiral (www.aquascutumgifts.com; 295) to the Olivia (www.gobletdirect.co.uk; 28.95).
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TIM ATKIN MW defends Chardonnay - the world's greatest white grape' - against the ABC movement. He says it suffers for its popularity: being easy to grow, pronounce, make and sell, but notes it makes wines that are rarely undrinkable', compared with styles that are popular as well as bad - White Zinfandel and most Pinot Grigio'. He admits that vast plantings of Chardonnay at the expense of indigenous grapes has reduced the diversity of the wine world but has also helped drinkers discover other varieties it is often blended with. And they don't all taste the same or cost a fortune, he notes, selecting four under 14 from Chile, South Africa and France.
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Follow your heart when you choose a red wine, says SUSY ATKINS, who raises a glass (two small ones over dinner, not a whole bottle on an empty stomach) to antioxidants. She goes over the much-repeated facts (see Jamie Goode's feature in Harpers on 12 January) about how the grape skins and seeds of red grapes hold most of the protective properties and how those grown at high altitudes are especially potent because the longer ripening season produces extra pigments in their skins (ergo more antioxidants). She cites Professor Roger Corder's book, The Wine Diet, saying we should concentrate on Sardinian and southern French styles. There's no Italian pick but Atkins likes the 2003 Chteau Peyros Tempo Madiran (4.99 or 3.99 for two; Majestic).
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JOANNA SIMON takes a look at Shiraz/Viognier blends and reminds drinkers that while a small percentage of the white grape enhances the perfume, texture, and colour of the Shiraz, more isn't always better - sometimes 5% is too much. While the idea stems from Cte-Rtie in the Northern Rhne, it's Australia that makes most of these blends. Her best-value pick is 2004 Yering Station (9.99, Sainsbury's).
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It is time to crack open a full-bodied red, says SUSY ATKINS. Dismissing the namby-pamby drinks she has been sampling recently, she turns her attention to powerful reds that can measure up to hearty cold-weather stews. I've heard of Aussie winemakers refer to them as wines with grunt' - an apt description of red packed with concentrated fruit and chunky, almost chewy tannins,' she observes. The best big reds come from warm vineyard sites in South Africa, Spain, Chile, France's deep south and Australia, she says.
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As the supermarket leviathans march through Brighton and Hove, JONATHAN RAY suggests oenophiles escape to the small independent merchants in the area. To broaden your (or his) shopping pleasure, he notes that Quaff Fine Wine Merchant, run by ex-Sussex county cricketer Toby Peirce, is by a transvestite's outfitters and, near to an erotic boutique is Festival Wines, specialising in organic - orgasmic? - wines. His weekly choices include 2004 Quinta do Ca (7.99; Butlers Wine Cellar).
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Dedicating her column to the underappreciated winemaker', VICTORIA MOORE hails the very much appreciated (given their multiple plaudits) Alvaro Espinoza of Chile, Portugal's Dirk Niepoort, Australia's Matt Gant and bestselling author Patricia Atkinson. Espinoza's organic 2004 Mareante Hill Cabernet-Merlot (5.99, Marks & Spencer) is a top-value pick.
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What effect does such a fted year as 2005 have on the vintages before and after it? JANCIS ROBINSON MW says it's too early to judge the testing' 2006 vintage, but she notes that classed growth 2004 Bordeaux look even better than they did en primeur' - and a real bargain compared with 2005. Red Burgundy wasn't so lucky: her tastings have been mixed and downright depressing'. But there is joy' from whites, especially Chablis, which seems more successful than in 2005.
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