It is time to crack open a full-bodied red, says SUSY ATKINS. Dismissing the namby-pamby drinks she has been sampling recently, she turns her attention to powerful reds that can measure up to hearty cold-weather stews. I've heard of Aussie winemakers refer to them as wines with grunt' - an apt description of red packed with concentrated fruit and chunky, almost chewy tannins,' she observes. The best big reds come from warm vineyard sites in South Africa, Spain, Chile, France's deep south and Australia, she says.