As the supermarket leviathans march through Brighton and Hove, JONATHAN RAY suggests oenophiles escape to the small independent merchants in the area. To broaden your (or his) shopping pleasure, he notes that Quaff Fine Wine Merchant, run by ex-Sussex county cricketer Toby Peirce, is by a transvestite's outfitters and, near to an erotic boutique is Festival Wines, specialising in organic - orgasmic? - wines. His weekly choices include 2004 Quinta do Ca (7.99; Butlers Wine Cellar).