Follow your heart when you choose a red wine, says SUSY ATKINS, who raises a glass (two small ones over dinner, not a whole bottle on an empty stomach) to antioxidants. She goes over the much-repeated facts (see Jamie Goode's feature in Harpers on 12 January) about how the grape skins and seeds of red grapes hold most of the protective properties and how those grown at high altitudes are especially potent because the longer ripening season produces extra pigments in their skins (ergo more antioxidants). She cites Professor Roger Corder's book, The Wine Diet, saying we should concentrate on Sardinian and southern French styles. There's no Italian pick but Atkins likes the 2003 Chteau Peyros Tempo Madiran (4.99 or 3.99 for two; Majestic).