Dedicating her column to the underappreciated winemaker', VICTORIA MOORE hails the very much appreciated (given their multiple plaudits) Alvaro Espinoza of Chile, Portugal's Dirk Niepoort, Australia's Matt Gant and bestselling author Patricia Atkinson. Espinoza's organic 2004 Mareante Hill Cabernet-Merlot (5.99, Marks & Spencer) is a top-value pick.