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Winemakers react to Hungary’s hottest July

Exclusive interviews with Harpers reveal that while there are concerns about the changing climate, Hungarian winemakers believe they can adapt without abandoning their traditional white wines.

László Mészáros (pictured), head winemaker at Disznókö in Tokaji, told Harpers that the early harvest trend is widespread across the country due to a particularly warm year, with temperatures consistently above average.

“It’s been a warm year... which created excellent conditions for early ripening with around three weeks’ advance compared to an average vintage like last year,” Mészáros explained. He remains optimistic, describing this year’s vintage as promising, especially for high-acid varietals like furmint. “Usually, warm years are excellent for high-acid varietals like our Furmint”.

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Comparing this year’s harvest to other extreme weather years, Mészáros noted that while 2024 had high mean temperatures and a long heatwave in July, it also saw more rainfall than the drought-stricken 2022 vintage, making it less extreme: “2024 is extreme for high mean temperatures and for a long heatwave period in July, but we had more rainfalls than usual,” he said.

Meanwhile, Sarolta Bardos, founder of Tokaji Nobilis, confirmed that the early harvest is also affecting her vineyards. “Spring arrived two weeks early to the Tokaj wine region,” she said, adding that harvest for the Muscat variety will begin in about a week, with Furmint and Hárslevelű following shortly after. 

Bardos emphasised the importance of timing in maintaining the high acidity that characterises Tokaj wines, noting: “Historically we began harvest at the end of October, which we now do in September. This reduces risks in production and evens out the quality of the product.”

Bardos also shared her observations on climate patterns, pointing out that while the climate has become more variable, it has not necessarily become hotter overall: “In summary, I would say that our climate became more variable over the years, rather than just simply becoming hotter.”

Despite the rising temperatures, Bardos and other winemakers in Tokaj see no need to shift from white to red varietals. “Furmint and Hárslevelű are unique in their traits and have great acidity, which is why there is no need to change to red wines,” Bardos concluded, underscoring the long-standing tradition of white wine production in the region.

In the southern wine region of Villany, Erhard Heumann, co-founder of Heumann Wines, described how this year's harvest is beginning 10-14 days earlier than usual.

“For the last six-plus weeks, we have seen temperatures above 30°C, often reaching 35-39°C, with almost no rain,” Heumann told Harpers. He expects this year’s vintage to be of very good quality, especially for varieties like Furmint and Kékfrankos, which are well-suited to the warmer conditions. However, Heumann expressed concerns about the long-term viability of certain grape varieties, such as Merlot, which might struggle in the warming climate.

István Szepsy Jr, head winemaker at Szepsy, also provided insights, highlighting the importance of selecting the right grape varieties for the future. He reiterated the resilience of the Furmint grape, which has been cultivated for over 1,000 years.

“What we can do recently is leave much more leaf cover to increase the shade,” Szepsy Jr explained, adding, “The selection of Furmint is the key for the future.” He remains confident in the adaptability of Furmint, particularly for producing dry white wines in the face of climate change.

In addition to the early harvests reported by individual winemakers, the National Council of Wine Communities has confirmed that this trend is widespread across Hungary. A mild start to the year created near-perfect conditions for vine growth, putting vineyards three to four weeks ahead of the usual schedule. Although a cooler spring slightly reduced this advantage, vineyards remain about two weeks ahead of typical conditions for this time of year. The dry weather has also contributed to the production of healthy, high-quality grapes, leading to expectations of fresh, fruit-driven wines for the 2024 vintage. These conditions mirror those of 2018, a year that also produced highly regarded, balanced wines.

Looking ahead, the council does not foresee significant changes in the quality or characteristics of Hungarian wines, particularly white wines, over the next decade. “Apart from extreme years, the conditions are ideal to produce white wines, and the producers can adapt to the warmer growing season by applying the appropriate cultivation or winemaking technologies,” Gabriella Szmilkó, head of interprofessional affairs at the National Council of Wine Communities told Harpers.

Over the past 20 years, Hungarian winemakers have implemented developments that make wine production more resilient, even in challenging conditions. These include increasing the cultivation of east- and north-facing vineyards, early morning harvesting, and using air conditioning and cooling tanks in wineries. “Winemakers have been adapting to the challenges of climate change for quite a few years, even a decade now,” Szmilkó explained. She expects that the 2024 wines will closely resemble the 2018 vintage, which was well-received by consumers.

• Wines of Hungary
• Tokaji
• Szepsy
• László Mészáros
• Tokaji Nobilis
• Heumann Wines
• István Szepsy Jr