New oak can “pollute” Italian varieties, says Tenuta di Ghizzano

By James Lawrence

Published: 07 April, 2022

Tuscan winegrowers are increasingly eschewing new oak for alternatives like amphora, older barrels and maturation in stainless/concrete, according to a leading estate in the region.

Ginevra Venerosi-Pesciolini, winemaker and owner of Tenuta di Ghizzano, told Harpers that the paradigm of ageing varieties like Vermentino and Sangiovese in new French barrique could “pollute” the wines, albeit this obsession of the early 21st century was waning.

“My mission is to express the purity and nuance of our terroir – I don't want the ‘pollution’ of new oak tannins in my wines,” said Venerosi-Pesciolini.

“Ageing in terracotta helps to preserve the fruit and minerality without excessive oxidation. It is a wonderful format to age wines in,” she added.

Producing a range of exceptional Sangiovese and Vermentino cuvees, Tenuta di Ghizzano was certified as fully biodynamic in 2018. However, Venerosi-Pesciolini conceded that in difficult years, the winery could lose a significant percentage of its yield.

“In challenging vintages, we have to sacrifice a higher yield to maintain our quality vision,” she said.

“There is a great deal of research happening at the moment, to find better ways to fight grapevine maladies like oidium.”

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