UK’s 50 Best Indies 2019

By Harpers Editorial

Published: 09 September, 2019

Welcome to the UK’s 50 Best Indies 2019, celebrating and elevating those at the top of their game

Given the high calibre of merchants nominated every year, compiling our UK’s 50 Best Indies list is always a challenge and is less about which is the biggest – as this year’s winner shows – but rather which businesses are proving successful, innovative, sustainable and a fantastic example of modern wine retailing.

The UK’s independent wine trade is in rude health if our UK’s 50 Best Indies 2019 is any benchmark, with some impressive and longstanding merchants nudged out by dynamic new entrants.

Those that appear here are at the top of their game in what remains a challenging and competitive calling, according to our expert judging panel, which delved deep into the intricacies of what it takes to be a great independent wine merchant in today’s trading conditions.

Congratulations to all who made the 50 Best Indies, with a special mention to our winner, Bin Two, which judges agreed is a vibrant modern benchmark among wine merchants in the UK.

THE JUDGES

Nik Darlington, co-founder, Graft Wines

Judy Kendrick, JK Marketing founder and SITT creator

Nicky Forrest, managing director, Phipps PR

Mark Calver, commercial director, Hatch Mansfield

Rebecca Fraser, head of marketing, Louis Latour Agencies

1. BIN TWO, PADSTOW (UK WINNER)

Mike Boyne and his Bin Two team in Padstow have shown that small really is beautiful and that size should be no straitjacket to ambition. Faced with extreme seasonality, the Cornish indie has thrived as a community hub and specialist merchant without reinventing the wheel, and a marketing flair that belies its size. It successfully mixes it up with retail sales, an impressive range by the glass and some seriously tasty dishes to boot. Not resting on its laurels, the business now has plans in the pipeline to become the smallest micro winery in the country.

2. VAGABOND, LONDON

(LONDON REGIONAL STANDOUT)

Founder and managing director Stephen Finch’s “why not?” ethos has catapulted Vagabond to an enviable position in the independent trade. It now spans six shops – each weaving an on-site food and drinks offer into the fold. Whether it is offering 100+ wines by the glass via its emblematic use of Enomatic machines back when it started in 2010 or its English wine-focused urban winery next to Battersea Power Station, the company continues to set the benchmark for innovation, while remaining a consistent champion of wines from lesser-known grapes, regions and producers.

3. DEFINE FOOD & WINE, CHESHIRE

(NORTH REGIONAL STANDOUT)

Championing great wine from a corner shop in a small village in Cheshire for nearly 20 years, and one of the founding members of Vindependents, Define Food & Wine was one of the first indies outside London to feature Enomatic machines. With an extensive range of 1,200+ wines, the merchant, deli and restaurant business promotes organic and biodynamic wineries, with its portfolio hailed as one of the best in the country by several MWs.

4. HEDONISM WINES, LONDON

Located in the heart of one of London’s most upmarket neighbourhoods, Hedonism has become a firm fixture on Mayfair’s vinous landscape as well as one of the most prestigious independent businesses operating in the capital today. When the team isn’t hunting out old vintages and large formats to add to Hedonism’s stable of 6,500 wines and 3,000 spirits, it is working on its sister project, restaurant and bar HIDE, where guests can request any bottle from the Mayfair store to be delivered straight to their table.

5. CAMBRIDGE WINE MERCHANTS (EAST ANGLIA REGIONAL STANDOUT)

Under the passionate direction of managing director Hal Wilson, Cambridge Wine Merchants combines high-street specialist drinks retail with competitive regional wholesale, franchisor and indie supply to make it one of the busiest independent wine merchants in the UK, with shops now stretching from Cambridge to Winchester. Its range of more than 2,500 wines, beers and spirits is second to none, as is its customer service which lies at the heart of its ethos.

6. LEA & SANDEMAN, LONDON

Eschewing big names in favour of quality and personality has become the MO of this long-standing London merchant. With four stores in Chelsea, Kensington, Barnes and Chiswick, co-founder Charles Lea continues to helm the ship, with true value for money and wines sourced direct from growers as a key part of its appeal. En primeur offers of Bordeaux and Burgundy and cellar planning all add to its credibility.

7. JEROBOAMS, LONDON

In a time of instability in the UK, Jeroboams stands out with its successful and continuous expansion drive, now counting eight independent shops – a testament to the determination and passion of staff throughout the business – including a completely new shop on High Street Kensington and the relaunch of Prohibition Wines into Jeroboams Muswell Hill. The retailer’s range also continues to grow and be fine-tuned, climbing from 1,100 labels in 2018 to 1,600 this year.

8. LOKI WINE, BIRMINGHAM (MIDLANDS REGIONAL STANDOUT)

One of the first outside London to develop the hybrid concept, Birmingham’s Loki Wine continues to expand and keep things fresh, while still maintaining its DNA as a premium wine merchant. Draught/craft beer and a large number of spirits are just some of the additional strings it has added to its bow since opening in 2012, with a third store due to open its doors by the year’s end.

9. THE OXFORD WINE COMPANY, OXFORDSHIRE (HOME COUNTIES REGIONAL STANDOUT)

Ted Sandbach and his team continue to make a significant mark on the indies landscape, balancing a strong presence in the local area with a reach that extends across the country via its retail and wholesale arms. Never resting on its laurels, and despite being traditional at heart, the business is always looking forward and finding new ways to improve. Following a successful trial of the Coravin list at The Oxford Wine Café, it recently invested in devices for all its retail shops, adding yet more reason to visit this multi-faceted merchant.

10. TAURUS WINES, SURREY

Surrey-based family-run independent merchant Taurus Wines impresses with its customer service and passionate product knowledge delivered by a close-knit and majority WSET-trained team of staff. The merchant also has exciting things in the pipeline with a second branch due to launch next year. Its setting is a renovated 400-year-old barn, which will open in tandem with a new food village being built in Loseley Park.

11. THEATRE OF WINE, LONDON

Embracing classic European wines alongside wines from emerging regions and forgotten treasures, such as sherry, Port and Madeira, Theatre of Wine showcases one of the most eclectic ranges of wines in the UK, bolstered by an impressive beer and spirit collection. The retailer, importer and wholesaler, headed up by Daniel Illsley, also excels at in-store, corporate and private tastings, while offering traditional merchant services, such as glass hire, ice and UK-wide delivery, and the ability to set up a wedding or cellar list.

12. BERRY BROS & RUDD, LONDON

Despite being Britain’s oldest wine and spirit merchant, Berry Bros & Rudd still manages to keep the independent spirit alive and fresh with a reach that now extends to Japan, Singapore and Hong Kong. Education also plays a large part in what the company does today, with its Wine School continually striving to engage novices and fully fledged wine connoisseurs alike.

13. YAPP BROTHERS WINE MERCHANTS, WILTSHIRE (SOUTH WEST REGIONAL STANDOUT)

Specialising in the Rhône, Loire and Languedoc, Yapp imports more than 300 wines and spirits direct from over 100 independent producers, and has in its 50 years of business built an enviable reputation for an extremely high-quality portfolio. Its "best in class from unchampioned regions" buying philosophy has more recently been extended to Australia, Spain, Germany and South Africa, strengthening the Mere-based merchant’s position as a beacon for great wines.

14. RESERVE WINES, NORTH WEST

Manchester’s Reserve Wines shines with its impressive range of "boutique wines" from family-owned wineries across the globe. Having grown to comprise four shops since it was founded by Kate Goodman in 2003, this independent merchant doesn’t just pride itself on the quality of every bottle it sells, from £4 to £400, but also displays a refreshing focus on enticing customers to try different grapes.

15. VINO WINES, EDINBURGH (SCOTLAND REGIONAL STAND OUT)

With four wine shops north of the border, Andrew Lundy and his team do their bit to keep the Edinburgh and wider Scottish indies scene enticing and exciting. Featuring a full drinks repertoire spanning wines, beers and spirits alongside cider and some fortified too, the merchant stands out with its aim to not be stuffy, nor the traditional choice.

16. BOTTLE APOSTLE, LONDON

Quality and attention to detail has put the much-celebrated Bottle Apostle a cut above the rest. As well as offering a broad range of wines at different price points, the wines sold in the company’s four shops and online are colour-coded, food matched and concisely described – all of which has garnered Bottle Apostle a loyal following of its own.

17. LUVIANS BOTTLE SHOP, ST ANDREWS

St Andrew’s-based Luvians sells fine wines from the Old and New Worlds via its two stores on the town’s bustling Market Street and its flagship store on Cupar’s Bonnygate. Home to almost 1,200 whiskies, this indie is also a deservedly global destination for lovers of the Water of Life.

18. THIRSTY, CAMBRIDGE

This Cambridge bar and bottle shop has made its name on its unstuffy approach while becoming a bit of an emporium for beer and wine lovers. Live events, from comedy, music, quizzes and even bingo, keep the locals coming back for more, with regular food trucks and a cosy "den" out the back all adding to its allure.

19. SALUT WINES, MANCHESTER

Headed up by Sara Saunby, hybrid Salut Wines combines wine bar, shop, delicious food and Enomatic-dispensing machines in an attractive industrial-chic setting. With 40 wines by the glass and more than 400 bottles to drink in or take away, the business prides itself on offering something for all lovers of wine, regardless of knowledge, preference or budget, alongside an ever-changing craft beer selection.

20. HANDFORD WINES, LONDON

Handford Wines is proud to keep things old school, with personal service and knowledge forming the backbone of this traditional South Kensington merchant. The team also boasts two Masters of Wine, who are on hand to guide customers through its impressive range.

21. WOODWINTERS, SCOTLAND

Launched in 2005 with its first shop in Bridge of Allan, near Stirling in Scotland, WoodWinters has grown to comprise shops in Edinburgh and Inverness, and a wholesale-focused office in London. From day one, its mission was to help customers drink better wine and, as such, it features a fantastic quality and provenance-dedicated range of wine.

22. THE GOOD WINE SHOP, LONDON

This innovative retailer refuses to stand still. From becoming a champion of grower Champagnes, to launching loyalty card scheme and recently incorporating an on-trade element to the business, The Good Wine Shop has plenty of ideas to keep it dynamic and agile.

23. VINO VERO, ESSEX

Specialising in wines from small independent growers with a focus on organic and biodynamic, Leigh-on-Sea-based Vino Vero is a small, friendly shop. In addition, it sells craft beers and artisan spirits – all hand-picked for their quality and value. Another feather in Vino’s cap is its strong focus on consumer education, including tastings and events and collaborations with local businesses and charities.

24. HENNINGS WINE, WEST SUSSEX

Cultivating relationships for the long term through personalised service is what has made Hennings Wine enduringly popular over its 59-year lifespan. Now under third-generation family ownership, the business owns shops throughout Sussex and continues to delight wine lovers with a 1,500-strong list of independently sourced bottles.

25. AMPS WINE MERCHANTS, PETERBOROUGH

Based on the ethos that a wine merchant should only stock wines oneself would drink ("if you don’t like the wine bring it back and we will drink it for you and replace your bottle"), Amps Wine Merchants continues to go from strength to strength, driven by fourth-generation family owner Philip Amps, who continues to move the century-old business forward with his mix of passion and knowledge.

26. VALHALLA’S GOAT, GLASGOW

As the name suggests, this company of straight-talking Glaswegians doesn’t take itself too seriously, operating with an approach that aims to “de–wankify” the whole process of buying and enjoying wine. The drinks on the other hand have some real clout, with funky, minimal-intervention wines which would please both wine and beer lovers, adding some serious pizazz to their list.

27. LE VIGNOBLE, PLYMOUTH AND BATH

With its focus on small producers and unusual wines, alongside its philosophy to provide wines with a good balance between quality and price, Le Vignoble offers elements of lounge, retail and education, which come together to provide a superb vinous haven.

28. CHESTERS WINE MERCHANTS, ABERGAVENNY (WALES REGIONAL STANDOUT)

This Welsh indie offers an interesting wine range comprising a large selection of wines from off the beaten track, plus great craft beers, all of which can be taken home or enjoyed in the cosy mezzanine. The charm of the business, which prides itself on having an unstuffy attitude, is bolstered to by its rather large shop dog named … Chester.

29. HARPERWELLS, NORWICH

Dedicated to supporting the most talented winemakers in the industry, HarperWells offers an incredible selection of wines via its Norwich-based shop, online and through a raft of complementary services including wholesale and nationwide delivery. Under the eye of co-founders Ed Wells and Dean Harper, the business continues to thrive.

30. SECRET BOTTLE SHOP, HEREFORD

An extensive whisky and Port range, as well as being off the beaten track, has all contributed to Secret Bottle Shop’s 'hidden gem' reputation. Operating in Herefordshire with a wide selection of wines, Champagnes and spirits, it has built a loyal following of customers who are happy to go the extra mile to taste its vinous delights.

31. TANNERS WINE MERCHANTS, SHROPSHIRE

In its 177th year, Tanners Wine Merchants continues to evolve under the leadership of fourth-generation family member James Tanner. Boasting the capabilities of a major national retailer, the merchant still has the personal touch of a friendly local wine merchant, with its range tailored to cater for all purses - from £7 bargains to £1,000 bottles.

32. FOREST WINES, LONDON

A thirst for quality, natural produce and diversity has garnered Forest Wines a reputation that extends past its north London neighbourhood of Walthamstow. A predominantly natural, organically or biodynamically produced and minimum-intervention list is complemented by a craft beer selection from some of London’s top artisan breweries.

33. NORTH COAST WINE CO, CORNWALL

A small but vibrant hybrid wine merchant comprising a bar and shop, this Bude-based indie counts more than 1,400 alcoholic drinks from wine and spirits to ales and ciders. In the past year it has been building on the wholesale side of the business, supplying to small specialist restaurants in the local area.

34. ADNAMS, SUFFOLK

Southwold brewer Adnams has grown its retail presence across East Anglia, with shops in Norfolk, Suffolk, Cambridgeshire and Peterborough operating as fully fledged wine merchants. Adnams impresses for the variety and quality on offer, which spans wine to its very own Ghost Ship pale ale.

35. THE VINEKING, SURREY

Having already achieved great success with pop-ups both in store and on proper restaurant premises, The Vineking is showing no signs of slowing down, having opened its first permanent food and drink hybrid in October last year in Reigate in leafy Surrey. The latest opening takes The Vineking’s estate to five shops, of which three are in its hometown of Reigate.

36. PHILGLAS & SWIGGOT, LONDON

Now owned by a team that also makes wine, Philglas & Swiggot goes the extra mile to hit the right price points for customers, even if that means buying from a wide range of suppliers. It also has a killer New World list, thanks in large part to buyer and Californian specialist co-owner Justin Knock MW.

37. CHRISTOPHER PIPER WINES, DEVON

Combining retail and wholesale, Ottery St Mary-based Christopher Piper Wines serves Devon and the wider West Country with an extensive, quality-driven list featuring more than 1,800 wines, spirits and other drinks. Mirroring owner Christopher Piper’s other job as a winemaker in Beaujolais, the business specialises in French wine and domaine/estate bottles from small growers.

38. THE SECRET CELLAR, SURREY AND KENT

Expanding to include four retail shops spread across Kent, East Sussex and Surrey, a bar, two websites and a growing wholesale arm hasn’t distracted The Secret Cellar from its roots of championing small, independent producers. Community is also at the heart of this business, with strong links to restaurants and local businesses as well as charities, schools and sports clubs across several of the Home Counties.

39. D BYRNE & CO, LANCASHIRE

Having traded in Lancashire for more than 130 years, family-run D Byrne & Co has built a reputation for sourcing and supplying the finest wines and spirits at the keenest razor-sharp prices. The Victorian shop, which includes a warren of underground cellars, is a magnet for wine lovers from all over the country. In addition to an ever-changing range of more than 3,000 wines, it offers spirits, liqueurs, bottled ales and a coffee selection to complete the drinking experience.

40. HIGHBURY VINTNERS, LONDON

Wine retailer at heart, Highbury Vintners also offers an outstanding beers and spirits range, which takes the company’s number of quality drinks to more than 2,000. A specialism in Spain and Portugal is also key, with over 250 wines helping to demonstrate the breadth of the wines from the Iberian Peninsula.

41. BUTLERS WINE CELLAR, BRIGHTON

Set in the bustling seaside city of Brighton, Butlers Wine Cellar is a family business with two outlets headed up by Henry Butler, who runs it with enthusiasm and passion, and a keenness to inspire people to experiment more with wine and have fun doing so. It has an impressive and interesting range spanning all conceivable interests.

42. AKE & HUMPHRIS, NORTH YORKSHIRE

Regular weekend tastings is key to the way this Yorkshire merchant continues to engage its customer base. Everything from fine wines, Champagne, value options and more than 150 specialist beers are available – all of which stay true to its “not in the supermarket” philosophy.

43. SOUTH DOWNS CELLARS, WEST SUSSEX

This popular Sussex business is driven by its desire to offer quality wines from similarly independent-minded producers across all price points. Since being founded in 2003, it has grown to comprise two shops and a thriving wholesale business. Staying true to its ethos, it ships direct from more than 15 different small privately owned vineyards around Europe. As well as wine, it also sells craft beers, spirits and new Oddi-Teas.

44. WINE THERAPY, COWES, ISLE OF WIGHT

Boutique wine haven Wine Therapy delivers on its promise of offering great wines in an atmospheric, friendly and informative environment. The Isle of Wight outfit is also notable for its four specialist sampling machines, which allow customers to sample at their leisure.

45. THE BOTTLE SHOP, CARDIFF

A small, inviting indie based in Roath, Cardiff, The Bottle Shop’s impressive 800-strong portfolio spans wines, beers and spirits from all over the world, as well as boasting a range of local beers from in and around South Wales. Believing that “a fair price for a good product leaves nobody feeling short changed”, and keen to demystify the relative value of wine, all the bottles in the shop are priced on the same margin.

46. NY WINES, CAMBRIDGESHIRE

A new name and a change of location has given a new lease of life to NY Wines, formerly Noel Young Wines. The man himself, Noel Young, continues to oversee a highly engaging list in the new premises, which also now boasts a wine bar.

47. CHEERS WINE MERCHANTS, SOUTH WALES

Family-owned Cheers Wine Merchants specialises in good-value-for-money wines, spirits and beers, with a range of more than 700 wines of which many are exclusive to the business. It has a strong focus on the Languedoc and also Spanish wines, and not just from well-known regions but some really interesting up-and-coming areas.

48. THE WHALLEY WINE SHOP, LANCASHIRE

Rising from the ashes of Threshers, this “fiercely independent” merchant continues to bring stellar wines and service to Lancashire’s population. It also has a growing hybrid element, with a minimum of 20 wines open to taste, helping to keep northern palates salivating.

49. JN WINE, NORTHERN IRELAND

Delivering “no gimmicks, no fuss, just good quality, enjoyable wine” is the aim of Northern Ireland-based JN Wine, which offers wines sourced from family-owned and artisan wineries from around the world. Operating since 1977, it supplies wine lovers across the UK and Ireland and offers home delivery.

50. GRAPE & GRAIN, NORTHUMBERLAND

Operating over three floors, this merchant continues to win over customers with its boutique wine and beer offering, deli counter, tasting room and clubroom, where guests can take their time over a glass of wine for a small corkage fee.

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