Dermot Sugrue: ‘Looking Back, Forging Ahead’

By Harpers Editorial team

Published: 12 August, 2025

Talented winemaker Dermot Sugrue of Sugrue South Downs continues our summer Q&A series, musing on the importance of the English wine sector, the success of Bonkers and ‘the elephant in the room’.

How has business been for you in the first half of 2025 and how do things compare to where you were last year?

Happily, we’ve had a fantastic start to 2025. While export sales have been slightly down year-on-year, direct-to-consumer (DTC) and trade sales are way up, so the biggest challenge for us has been keeping on top of the increased demand for our wines. Overall, we’re in a strong position going into the second half of the year.

What have been the biggest challenges and headaches so far this year and how have you sought to mitigate those?

After the pretty disastrous growing season and harvest in 2024, it was always going to be a difficult year for the vines to bounce back in 2025. While our team has had its work cut out in the vineyards, the warm, dry weather has proved ideal for flowering and fruit set, as well as keeping disease pressure at bay. Although the crop is looking small for 2025, quality is looking very promising.

What are you most proud of achieving this year in terms of driving the business forward?

It was a wonderful surprise for The Trouble with Dreams 2009 to win Best in Show at the Decanter World Wine Awards – the first time a sparkling wine in magnum has been crowned as one of the top 50 wines in the world and a feat never achieved by a Champagne in this category.

The exposure in the national press and media has been phenomenal. Having made wines here for the past two decades, it’s brilliant to see England recognised on a global stage alongside Champagne and the world’s best sparkling wines.

The success of our Bonkers – our still, multi-vintage Chardonnay – has also been heartening. We are now effectively selling Bonkers V2 en primeur, which is pretty mind-blowing for an English still wine.

Looking ahead to the second half of the year, what is the biggest cause for concern?

Some rotten weather between now and harvest would obviously throw up some difficulties… However, the elephant in the room for the industry more broadly is oversupply, while deep discounting by the bigger players and supermarkets continues to threaten the overall reputation of English wine. Those issues will only deepen when the huge volumes of stock from the 2023 vintage come into play.

What single thing could the government do to best improve trading conditions and the success of the drinks sector?

Aside from reforming the questionable new duty rates, the implementation of a cellar door relief scheme would encourage tourism and investment in the industry, making English wines more affordable and competitive at the top end versus Champagne. It’s time that the government acknowledged how important the English wine sector is in terms of its potential to create jobs and contribute to the economy.

What trends are you seeing in the drinks’ world at the moment, and how do you expect that to change going into the autumn?

We’re seeing a growing demand for English still wines (we’re releasing our first Pinot Noir from Essex grapes in November), alongside an increasing interest in darker rosés and larger formats, and a voracious appetite for library stocks. Drinkers are happier to experiment in the spring and summer, whereas autumn usually sees a return to familiarity and comfort.

Any other predictions for the second half of the year?

Off the back of the recent news of Burgundian domaines Duroché and Bernard Moreau partnering with Danbury Ridge and Missing Gate, we have a feeling the English industry is going to see more partnerships form with producers outside the UK.

Quick fire questions…

France, Italy or Spain?

France

Georgia, Greece or UK?

‘Normal’ or ‘natural’ wine?

Normal

Cocktails or straight sippin’ spirits?

Straight sippin’ spirits

Mixologist or mix it at home?

Mix at home. Never complex: Irish Pot Still Whiskey, mixed with a glass

Aperitif preference?

A Martini made with our own Precognition Gin