Argentine adventure: Condor tasting highlights diversity of expressions
At the Amanda Barnes MW hosted Condor Wines Argentinian Extremes virtual tasting, two winemakers, Elías López Montero from the Patagonian Alto Valle de Río Negro and Pancho Lavaque from the northern Salta region, highlighted the tasting diversity afforded by Argentina's diverse climate and geography.
Flying the flag for Patagonian wine at the event was Spanish winemaker Elías López Montero of Bodegas Verum. The producer, which is known for its La Mancha vineyards in Spain, purchased the Del Rio Elorza winery in Alto Valle de Río Negro from a family of lawyers. In homage to this family, the Verum wine bottles from the Patagonian vineyard are adorned with five Black-necked swans, a species indigenous to the Río Negro valley.
The winery is situated close to the source of the Río Negro river and is afforded with a unique, Burgundy-esque growing environment due to the area’s high water availability and alluvial soils, both thanks to its proximity to Argentina’s largest river. This growing environment is what attracted Elías López Montero and Bodegas Verum to the area. López Montero described his excitement in working in a region which contrasts greatly to the dry growing environment of La Mancha where his family’s Bodegas Verum vineyards are situated.
The wines tasted from Bodegas Verum included a crisp and vibrant Verum Chardonnay, a silky Verum Pinot Noir and an elegant expression of Verum Malbec. The Burgundy-like growing conditions mean, according to López Montero, the region is perfect for the growing of Pinot Noir. The fermentation of the Pinot Noir grapes utilises up to 20% whole bunch which affords the wine its tannic structure.
Malbec and Argentina’s love affair is in part driven by how wines produced from grape can express the diverse terroir of the country. López Montero explained how the lower elevation (245 metres above sea level) of winery afforded the Malbec its softer tannins. The approach to the production of Pinot Noir has also influenced the approach to Malbec, using 10%-15% whole bunch during fermentation, giving the wine its expressive aromas.
One of the strengths of the wine growing region illuminated by López Montero was its resilience in face of climate change. As wineries in Mendoza already struggle with water supply, Alto Valle de Río Negro’s proximity to the great river insulate it from this challenge (for now).
Travelling 2000km north and 2000 metres up in elevation to the Salta region, Pancho Lavaque guided us through his family’s Bodega Lavaque wines. The 150-year-old winery is young in comparison to the deep-rooted agricultural tradition of the winery’s Cafayate valley. Some of the agricultural terraces used by winery are up to 5,000 years old.
The region is very dry, only receiving 200mm of rain per year. Pancho Lavaque described how such an abundance of sunshine obligated the winery to use a pergola growing system to protect the grapes. This approach utilises vines trained above head height, allowing grapes to hang beneath the shade of the canopy.
The first wine Pancho Lavaque guided us through was the winery’s Inca Torrontés. The wine, produced from the indigenous Criolla variety, was aromatic with a lovely floral aroma. The Torrontés is produced using natural fermentation, utilising wild yeasts found on the skin of the grape to drive the fermentation process. The grapes are picked at an early stage in their growing to allow for the wine’s delightful acidity.
Bodega Lavaque’s Inca Malbec further demonstrated the elasticity of the style. The grapes are picked early to allow for a fresh, juicy wine with spicy, peppery notes typical of Malbecs from the Salta region.
The final wine tasted on this voyage through Argentine styles was an uncommon one for the country. Bodega Lavaque’s Inca Tannat is a vibrant, lighter style with a deep purple colour. This colour is thanks to Tannat's long growing cycle and ability to hold in the vineyard for longer. In fact, as of early March, Pancho Lavaque detailed that Torrontés and Malbec had already been harvested while Tannat remained on vine to allow for its best expression.
You can visit Condor Wines’ website to learn more about the wines from Bodegas Verum and Bodega Lavaque.
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