Shining a light on Eastern delights from the EU

By Harpers Advertorial

Published: 06 January, 2025

Focusing on Bulgaria, Hungary and Romania for the EU’s More than Only Food & Drink campaign.

From Albariño to Zweigelt, the European Union (EU) has an abundance of varietals stretching across the continent and has a longstanding and crucial place in the world’s wine production. In recent years there have been exciting developments in regions previously recognised for lower quality wines.

Following social reform and better vine management, Central and Eastern European winemakers are returning to crafting wines of superior quality that are well worth sampling. Bulgaria, Hungary and Romania are three such regions and certainly ones to watch given current wine-purchasing trends.

“The evidence points to a growing willingness from UK consumers to be more adventurous in their wine selection,” says Neil McAndrew, advisor to the EU’s More Than Only Food & Drink campaign and a wine industry professional of 30 years.

He adds: “Where previously the classic regions would be first choice, a combination of factors including perceived value for money, the explosion of travel to emerging wine countries and a willingness to try something new is changing buying habits.”

BULGARIA: FROM ANTIQUITY TO A DYNAMIC WINE CULTURE

Bulgarian winemaking history is older than the country itself. Wine was first produced in the region three millennia ago, while the Bulgarian Empire was not founded until 681AD .

McAndrew says: “We are in a modern, dynamic era for Bulgarian wine with the focus on quality above quantity and creating exceptional wines through blending the existing array of exciting native grape varieties. It is a world away from the 1980s approach of entry-level international grape varieties and a reliance on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in particular.”

The refocus has salvaged the region’s indigenous grapes, of which Mavrud is likely the most famous. The crimson grapes are juicy with notes of blackberries, overripe mulberries and spices, and the resulting wines benefit from oak contact from which they develop rich, complex aromas and a balanced depth.

HUNGARY FOR INNOVATION AND REDISCOVERY

Hungary is world renowned for the production of Hungarian Tokaj / Tokaji PDO, a wine deemed valuable enough to be given the world’s first vineyard classification in 1700.

With its heritage in the Tokaj region, Furmint has already made its way into British wine lovers’ glasses and Hungary has a strong international following for its white wines. However, with

more than 35% of Hungarian vines now producing red wines and a renewed enthusiasm for innovation and rediscovery, particularly of historical varieties and regional specific sites, the future is extremely exciting.

Kadarka was once Hungary’s most famous red grape, but its susceptibility to disease and late-ripening issues led to it being neglected during the communist era. These days the grapes are grown on the Great Plain of Szekszárd, where passionate winemakers are producing excellent reds with plenty of acidity, ripe fruit flavours and spicy after notes.

ROMANIA: A DIVINE CONNECTION TO WINE

Wine production in Romania dates back to when the Greeks first brought grapevines to the country between 600-500 BC. According to legend, Banat in Romania was the birthplace of Bacchus, giving the region a divine connection to viticulture. It is now a significant producer of wine and sits in the top ten wine-producing countries, producing 1.9% of the world’s total wine and with volumes up over 20% in 2022.

McAndrew says: “Over the past 25 years, the country’s wine industry has been transformed and there has been a surge in quality both at the entry level, driven by the huge success of forward thinking, internationally minded producers such as Recas Cramele, and at the more premium end, with terroir-specific grape varieties such as Fetească Regală, Fetească Neagră and Negru de Drăgășani.”

BLENDING TRADITION WITH MODERN WINEMAKING

McAndrew highlights some of his favourite Eastern European wines: “Look out for Edoardo Miroglio ‘Soli’ Pinot Noir Bulgaria 2020– an intriguing but delicious interpretation of Pinot Noir. Gizella Tokaj Sweet Szamorodni 2019 from Hungary – lusciously sweet with apricots, honey and orange, hints of saffron and ginger, and a fresh vibrancy to tie it all together. And Balla Geza Kolna Kiralyleanyka 2020 from Romania – full of rich yellow fruits, buttercream, pink grapefruit and red apple; it’s satisfying and voluptuous with a long finish.”

He concludes: “The future of wines from Bulgaria, Hungary and Romania is bright as these countries continue to rediscover and refine their unique varietals, blending tradition with modern winemaking techniques to deliver wines of increasingly impressive quality. Alongside a growing willingness from the UK consumer to be more adventurous and younger drinkers, in particular, actively seeking out new and different wines, these regions are set to become one of the next great wine destinations.”

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