Headline Heroes: Champagne’s sustainability revolution

By James Lawrence

Published: 13 November, 2024

Maison Perrier-Jouët is among key Champagne houses committed to introducing practices that will help meet climate objectives. James Lawrence reports.

Innovation is the lifeblood of Champagne. From the sophisticated – and continually updated – art of assemblage to the promotion of regenerative viticulture, this historic French region has never shied away from renewal.

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Regenerative viticulture

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“For Maison Perrier-Jouët, sustainability is not a modern fad. Pierre-Nicolas Perrier was a renowned botanist and horticulturist, and he and Rose-Adélaïde Jouët established the Champagne house with a firm commitment to sustainable viticulture,” explains Séverine Frerson, chef de caves, Maison Perrier-Jouët.

“The house has set itself the ambitious goal of implementing regenerative viticultural practices in all its own vineyards and seeing full sustainable certification in those with which it partners by 2030. In so doing, Maison Perrier-Jouët is working to meet the climate objectives set out by the 2015 Paris Agreement, while also striving to enrich the biodiversity of Champagne, building on over two centuries of stewardship of this terroir.”

Indeed, Champagne was the first French region to carry out a carbon footprint assessment in 2003; the findings led to the creation of a definitive sustainable winegrowing certification under the Viticulture Durable en Champagne (VDC) label. Meanwhile, a philosophy that eschews harmful treatments and practises agriculture in collaboration with biodiversity is flourishing today.

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Green communication

The advancement of sustainability has become pivotal to a diverse group of stakeholders worldwide – it is now fundamental to the marketing of fine wine. According to Peter Doherty, wine buyer at Hallgarten & Novum Wines: “In our Wine Decisions Survey that we carried out in 2023, one of the resounding messages was that sustainability was a key part of the consumer decision-making process, coming behind only the colour of the wine and price point. When it comes to Champagne, key houses and growers are increasingly aware of the significance that sustainability has in the minds of the end consumer.”

He continues: “There are great benefits to investing and being ahead of the curve when it comes to sustainable practices – committing to long-term solutions and innovations means that growers are future-proofing Champagne as a wine-producing region.

“The move towards lower sulphur levels, for example, has proven to have a positive impact on quality, as well as lasting environmental benefits. Other initiatives, such as using lighter bottles, are an important trend that we are seeing across the industry and will reduce Champagne’s overall carbon footprint.”

To further that goal, Maison Perrier-Jouët’s production facilities are powered by green energy, while a reliance on sail-powered shipping has dramatically lowered CO2 emissions. Moreover, the company now refrains from using chemical herbicides, instead favouring plant cover and an all-electric robot, Bakus, that can remove weeds without overly compacting the soil.

In the historic vineyards of the Champagne region, sustainability has become fundamental to the safeguarding of our future.

Q&A: Séverine Frerson, chef de caves, Maison Perrier-Jouët

Maison Perrier-Jouët is committed to implementing regenerative viticultural practices in all its own vineyards and achieving full sustainable certification in those with which it partners by 2030.

Can you tell us more about what this will involve?

2021 saw the implementation of an experimental regenerative viticultural programme across more than 40% of Perrier-Jouët’s vineyards. The house is experimenting with biomass cover crops, vitiforestry and green corridors; all these methods regenerate the soils and improve their fertility, enrich biodiversity, limit emissions and enhance the vines’ resilience to the effects of climate change.

More broadly, how does this conversion fit into your longer-term strategic vision?

Maison Perrier-Jouët’s commitment to sustainability doesn’t stop in the vineyard. All of the house’s production facilities are already powered by green energy and will eventually run entirely on Épernay’s biomass network. In transportation, the house favours rail and sea over air and road wherever possible and uses sail-powered cargo ships, for 90% lower emissions than standard cargo ships. Even gifting has been redesigned with the environment in mind – the maison’s cuvées are now available in natural, lightweight and fully recyclable packaging, including the innovative Belle Époque cocoon, made from sustainable paper pulp and vine cuttings recycled after winter pruning.

We are in the middle of a climate crisis. How can sustainable winegrowing help in the fight against climate change?

Maison Perrier-Jouët is determined to concentrate its efforts in order to contribute, in every way it can, towards the climate objectives set by the 2015 Paris Agreement. Above all, it is striving to help enrich the biodiversity of the Champagne terroir, to which it has been profoundly attached for more than two centuries.

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