Friday Read: Gerard Bertrand’s rosé tinted Temple

By Abbie Bennington

Published: 11 October, 2024

Clos du Temple, three words that spell close to £200 for consumers of fine rosé wines. So, when the opportunity came to see behind the curtain (literally) of one of the world’s most expensive wines, during harvest, and to taste the latest vintage; I was tickled pink.

Much has been written about the age-worthy gastronomic rosé since its first release in 2018. For some it represents the culmination of Gerard Bertrand’s passion for raising the reputation of the Languedoc region and the rosé category; for others it remains an overpriced enigma.

Visiting Clos du Temple as some of the last of the Viognier grapes came into the winery, I was struck by the calm mood, serene even. Located in Cabrières (so called birthplace of rosé wines) the winery looks like a giant pebble fallen at your feet, inspired by the nearby vineyards of schist and limestone.

“This year is one of the best, it’s not easy but for this moment this is one of the best vintages we have had,” says Bertrand Degat, deputy general manager for Gerard Bertrand, who’s standing over the caskets of Viognier being processed before us.

Behind a huge metal door, the winery is a curious mix of theatrics and place of serious work. Heavy black curtains create a theatrical mood, alongside dramatic music. Large black pyramid shaped vats point astrologically to the skies in keeping with the biodynamic nature of all 17 Gerard Bertrand’s sites.

Speaking about the barrels of Clos du Temple before us, winemaker Benjamin Gadois says: “We blend something like 80 or 90 barrels. Sometimes Gerard says to me just use half of this barrel as it makes a difference. Sometimes 0.1 percent can make the difference its crazy.”

Biodynamics and a holistic approach sit alongside modernity at the site, making for a curious mix of luxury and environmental authenticity. Later, over lunch, our host Gerard Bertrand regaled us with the inspiration for Clos du Temple.

“I think the best wines in the world are between £200 and £300. I say okay why not create them… the best wines have to deliver the message of the place, number one, and number two the potential of ageing. To do that you have to have old vines, low yields, the biodynamic principle to reinforce acidity and pH.”

Just a small handful of us were the first to taste, alongside Gerard Bertrand, the latest vintage of the 2023 Clos du Temple. It’s a unique experience as, following the tasting, Gerard believes the wine should not be touched for another month whilst the flavours meld.

Paler in the glass, and closer to a white wine, there could be little doubt the wine follows the trend for gastronomic rosé. Peaches, roses and saffron dominate the nose but the flavour on the palate was much more intensely fruity than its 2022 sister. Delicate quince followed by subtle ginger notes, for me this tasted better than its older sibling.

This was a complex wine in taste as well as structure as the attention to detail for each part of the blend was meticulously brought together. It is this focus and the homeopathic nature of production in which Bertrand is a huge believer, saying that even the smallest change can make the biggest difference.

The Clos du Temple 2023 vintage is due for release to market early next year.

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