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Reassessing Rueda

Rueda is a wine region blessed with numerous advantages. Its signature grape, Verdejo, can produce wines every bit as refreshingly crisp and aromatic as Sauvignon Blanc; Verdejo holds its acidity well, even in the torrid climate of Castilla y León. What’s more, a growing number of producers are spreading their wings and exploring new terroirs while embracing funky styles, often ‘spiced’ with a touch of lees ageing and/or maturation in barrique.

Yet, as elsewhere, consumers may perceive Rueda as a homogeneous wine category: a Spanish alternative to Kiwi Sauvignon that doesn’t break the bank. A Harpers webinar entitled Quality & Diversity – Reassessing Rueda attempted to ascertain Rueda’s future prospects in the UK market, set against the backdrop of the creation of the Gran Vino de Rueda quality tier, plus the ongoing attempts to broaden its stylistic appeal. It is clear to aficionados of Spanish whites that Rueda is a diverse and dynamic region, with great potential as an export giant. The question is: can it make the leap from premium to the upper stratosphere? And is more oak the answer?

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“When Rueda came on to the scene as a young, zesty wine, it was viewed as a fresh and aromatic white at a time when Spain wasn’t producing anything like that,” said Robert Boutflower, private sales director at Tanners Wine Merchants.

“Nevertheless, people are now saying: ‘how do we make Spain more interesting’. What’s the next step?”
Kent Barker, founder of Wilding and Eight Stony Street, questioned whether “there was any major reason for Rueda to massively change direction? Particularly as its market share is growing.”

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Evolve or die

However, Boutflower countered this, stating that “you have to evolve or you will go backwards and die. But whether oak is the right approach for Verdejo is another matter.”

He added that “everyone is oaking their best wines in wood [and] I think oak-aged wines are a massive hit in the Spanish market”.

Beth Willard, buyer and Spanish specialist at Winetraders UK, told the panel that a growing firmament of younger growers were embracing an older style of Rueda that involved oxidative winemaking and long ageing in wood.

The panel then considered how consumers, in broad strokes, view Rueda in 2023. “People recognise the grape variety rather than the region,” opined Greg Andrews, owner of D Vine Cellars. “I can’t remember a time when someone asked for a bottle of Rueda.”

Yet Luma Monteiro, marketing manager at Davy’s, argued that the promotion of Rueda, rather than simply Verdejo, is the way forward. “I also think that lees ageing is the best way to make Rueda more diverse,” said Monteiro.

The panel then debated whether the new Gran Vino de Rueda category would succeed in helping Rueda to move away from the ‘fruity and affordable’ stereotype. “I was curious about the motivation in introducing this new tier,” said Andrews. “For example, I’m not sure consumers, even today, understand the differences between Reserva and Gran Reserva Rioja.”

But Boutflower observed that, with time, “the term Gran Vino de Rueda should help consumers to understand that they’re getting a superior product. As much as we’d all love to hand-sell our wines, it’s simply not possible.”

Nic Rezzouk, buyer at Reserve Wines, agreed, though suggested advancement would take time: “I think we need to establish Rueda as a name: an alternative to Sauvignon and the next logical step up. We need to create a ladder and pathway, but it’s possibly too soon to start widely promoting £30-plus wines.”

Andrews added: “The key thing is to get the entry level right. We can then focus on graduating to the higher tier.”

Coming from a different angle, Barker suggested: “I’d like to see more producers talking about organic/biodynamic viticulture in the region,” sparking a new debate.

Willard was in step, saying: “It is very easy to make organic wine in Rueda – it’s so easy that not every producer is bothering to certify.”

Drawing the discussion towards a close, the panel considered how best then to sell this super-premium category of Rueda to their customers. 

“I would play with the idea of pre-phylloxera vines, which has greatly benefited winegrowers elsewhere. I would also promote the region’s old vines – Rueda must strongly associate itself with its terroir,” argued Monteiro.

The overall consensus pointed to an optimistic appraisal of Rueda’s chances for growth and market expansion. “Rueda’s key asset is that it’s simple and easy to understand. That’s why it sells,” added Drew Jones. Indeed, it has a fabulous selling point as an indigenous Spanish grape that is both affordable and widely available.

Yet the potential to sell luxury labels is clearly there; Spain is a hot ticket in the UK, and consumers are increasingly demanding alternatives to expensive French wines. The journey will take time, of course, and people may change their strategy as market conditions dictate. But Rueda is on its way.

The Panel

Kent Barker, Wilding and Eight Stony Street

Nic Rezzouk, Reserve Wines

Greg Andrews, D Vine Cellars

Robert Boutflower, Tanners Wine Merchants

Luma Monteiro, Davy’s

Jasper Drew Jones, Jeroboams

Beth Willard, Winetraders UK

Andrew Catchpole, Harpers Wine & Spirit

• Jeroboams
• Rueda
• Reserve Wines
• Beth Willard
• Robert Boutflower
• tanners wine merchants
• D Vine Cellars
• Kent Barker
• Wilding and Eight Stony Street
• Nic Rezzouk
• Greg Andrews
• Luma Monteiro
• Davy’s
• Jasper Drew Jones
• Winetraders UK