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Blog: Ted Sandbach visits Champagne

Published:  20 January, 2012

Ted Sandbach, managing director of the Oxford Wine Company, picks out his highlights from this week's Harpers trip to Champagne, as well as taking note of what it means for his business.

Ted Sandbach, managing director of the Oxford Wine Company, picks out his highlights from this week's Harpers trip to Champagne, as well as taking note of what it means for his business.

It's been a while since I've "done" Champagne but despite the bitterly cold weather and trailing round endless cellars observing stainless steel tanks and wooden barrels there were some very obvious highlights, although of course some of the very old cellars were massively impressive and steeped in history. It's not often that one gets the chance to eat in the private dining room of the late Lily Bollinger tasting a different Champagne with each course and being guided through the vintages by the cellarmaster.

Then we had the Taittinger experience with the help of Vitalie, the daughter of the owner - that was a highlight in itself - and the wines were good! A short trek followed to savour the delights of the Laurent Perrier Ultra Brut - a wine with no sugar in the dosage and a slimmer's delight. This was followed by a storming range from Gosset and an elegant and fruity selection from the immaculate Pol Roger.

We were kept topped up with classic vintages and consumed vast amounts of foie gras but with Kelvin McCabe, head sommelier at Zuma, commenting knowledgeably on Champagne and food pairings we had no option but to try a variety of dishes from the restaurant menu. The beer on the journey home was a welcome relief but this indeed was a trip to remember.

Overall it reinforced my view that many of the top houses really are producing a quality product, what's more we are keen to work with those not involved in the heavy supermarket discounting which is only downgrading their product. It's about time that the Champagne houses started calling the tune with regard to pricing and get tough with those undermining the product. We wish, generally, to work with houses who will work with the independents. The trip also made me much more aware of the potential for Champagne and food matching - something that I had not considered seriously in the past.


Harpers Champagne Summit takes place on February 28 at Chiswell Street Dining Rooms, London.

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