Steak is on the menu for VICTORIA MOORE and there are plenty of red wine options to consider. Shiraz is a winner with a peppery steak and Moore recommends 2000 Geoff Merrill McLaren Vale Reserve Shiraz (12.99; Tesco) but different rules apply elsewhere. For example, the tannic austerity of a Chianti is tamed out of recognition by a hulk of bleeding T-bone'. Suggestions include 2004 Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico (around 10; M&S, Tesco, Waitrose).
SUSY ATKINS offers a forecast for autumn wine trends and sees potential for more premium reds from Chile, unusual grape varieties from France and Italy, and South Africa should make a deep impression with its gutsy, full-bodied red blends and finely balanced, fresh Sauvignon Blancs'. Pinot Noir's popularity also looks set to continue and Atkins suggests trying 2004 Porta Reserve Pinot Noir, Bo Bo, Chile (6.49; Thresher).
VICTORIA MOORE's husband has decided to buy a barbecue, and despite her initial reaction - Oh dear'- she acknowledges that it could be chance to sample some new wines. There are entire wine regions, and grape varieties, too, that I almost never touch away from the charred meat-feast of the barbecue.' Argentina comes out well here and among her favourites are the perfumed and lush' 2004 Anubis Malbec (5.99; selected Tesco).
Read more...MATTHEW JUKES travels to Argentina and Chile, and recommends some of the best [wines] on the planet'. Of the whites, 2006 Argento Chardonnay, Mendoza, Argentina (5.99; Co-op, Majestic, Sainsbury's, Tesco, Waitrose) is floral, honeyed and classy'. This week's WoW is 2003 Kuyen, Alvaro Espinoza, Maipo, Chile (8.99; Adnams).
Read more...The Mondavi empire was bought by Constellation Brands in 2004 but now Michael Mondavi has taken over Carneros Creek winery in Napa Valley and wants to be able to use his name on the label. Should this be allowed? Perhaps if it's just a signature, says RICHARD EHRLICH. Other news is focused on the Tesco Autumn Wine Festival (11 September to 10 October), featuring bargains such as 2004 Graham Beck Pinotage (4.99 from 6.99).
JAMIE GOODE finds that Vietnamese cuisine presents something of a challenge in the wine-matching stakes' and the best way forward is fruity, spicy whites', such as 2005 Grove Mill Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough (8.99; Oddbins).
Read more...JONATHAN RAY is living it up in the Duck and Dingo - a pub in the Australian embassy's patch of London - and tasting his way through some of the country's finest wines. He is helped along by Kirsten Moore, the regional manager of Wine Australia, who tells him: There is much more to Australia than just 4.99 jug wine, and that's the message we need to get across.' A few antipodean dishes are brought in to add to the experience and one of Ray's favourite matches is crocodile lasagne, a first for me', with 2005 Nepenthe Sauvignon Blanc (7.99; Sainsbury's).
It's all about fruit for JAMIE GOODE this week and he picks out a few reds that are packed full of the stuff, showing rich, ripe, sweet flavours'. One example is 2005 St Hallett Unearthed Touriga Nacional, Barossa (9.99 from 14.99 until 24 September; Waitrose).
Read more...TIM ATKIN MW is curious to discover who is behind the Association of Small Direct Wine Merchants (ASDW) and takes himself along to its tasting. The ASDW was set up last year, he reports, to protest against some of the anomalies in the 2003 Licensing Act and their effect on small businesses'. It's grown since then and Atkin approves of the personalities involved: Most of the members are enthusiasts. By this, I don't mean the sort of people who bore you witless at parties about the Chteau Musar they had with dinner last night. These men and women are the real deal: genuine lovers of wine who can't help sharing their passion with other people.' Among his recommendations from the tasting is 2003 Eppalock Ridge Shiraz (20; www.boutiquewinecompany.
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The Observer Food Monthly rates the best and worst Prosecco from 3 with the help of GENNARO CONTALDO and GENNARO D'URSO from Passione restaurant. Marks and Spencer came out on top with M&S Prosecco (7.49) awarded five stars, while Tesco was one of the losers with no stars given to its La Gioiosa (6.99).
For those with time-consuming commitments such as children, there is often little option except to buy almost everything from supermarkets, and VICTORIA MOORE discovers that Tesco's current wine sale is the perfect place to head for. Bargains include the cool and bracing' 2005 Tim Adams Clare Valley Riesling (5.99 from 7.99) and 2005 Tesco Finest Gavi (4.49 from 5.99), which Moore describes as one of the best-value and most versatile wines that Tesco sells'.
It was MATTHEW JUKES' birthday at the weekend and that means a chance to indulge himself. One of his favourite ways to do this is with a large, chilled glass of world-class pudding wine' and his top choices include 2001 Chteau La Rame, Sainte Croix du Mont, Bordeaux (9.99 for 50cl; Majestic).
JANE MacQUITTY simply can't understand why everybody whinges about the high alcohol levels of wines. What few commentators get to grips with is that balance is what you are looking for in wine,' she comments. The greatest wines with lots of flavour and concentration can carry an extra alcoholic degree.' She suggests trying a bottle of 2004 Cape Mentelle Cabernet-Merlot (11.99; Waitrose, Majestic). Sherry is also given a mention and one of MacQuitty's favourites is the 17% Solera Jerezana Reserva Manzanilla Sherry (6.99; Waitrose).
Read more...It's the turn of TIM ATKIN MW to say farewell to Australian legend Len Evans this week and the praise is plentiful: Evans was a showman, wit, exhibitionist and raconteur, who championed Australian wine styles with considerable vigour.' He admits that the Australian wine industry today is not without its problems - such as over-supply and a few disappointing brands - but there is just as much reason for optimism'. With Len Evans in mind, Atkin picks out some Aussie classics, including 2004 Tesco Finest Denman Vineyard Semillon (7.99; Tesco).
Read more...MATTHEW JUKES is also following the summer theme and introduces a few of his own 'seasonal stars'. Try a glass of 2004 De Bortoli Gulf Station Pinot Noir, Victoria, Australia (8.99; Oddbins) and 'you will be struck by the ethereal nuances of wild strawberry wafting up into your nostrils and wooing our senses'. Or go for this week's Wow, the 'titillatingly crisp' 2005 Willow Bridge Dragonfly, Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon, Geographe, Western Australia (7.49 or 4.99 when you buy three for two; Thresher)
Read more...Why go out for a drink when you can stay in for one?' muses JONATHAN RAY. Two new companies have taken advantage of the current trend for entertaining at home and Ray feels it's only fair that he gives them both a try. Taste-In sends over a wine expert and some top wines for the night and Ray's guests are treated to Charles Metcalfe, who proves to be authoritative and witty, and pitches it just right'. Belvedere Private Room is a little more on the edgy side and sends in bartenders, booze, poker chips, playing cards and very fit young ladies laden with a large massage table'. At between 80 to 100 a head, Ray does point out that neither occasion is cheap', but he decides it's worth it for two cracking evenings with fabulous wines and cocktails and absolutely no washing up'. Wines of the week include 2005 McWilliam's Hanwood Estate Riesling, Australia (5.99; Somerfield).
Read more...The third edition of The Oxford Companion to Wine has just been published and JANCIS ROBINSON MW can heave a sigh of relief. For the first time, the revision did not rely solely on Robinson, she had an assistant in the form of the ideally qualified' Julia Harding MW. The number of alphabetised entries has been increased by only 250 (from 3,650 to 3,900), but this translates as an addition of more than 300 substantive new entries' due to the ditching of all sections relating to wine in distilled form, such as Cognac and Armagnac, for reasons of space'. New entries include Crljenak Kastelanski, the Dalmation grape that turned out to be the original for California's Zinfandel and Puglia's Primitivo; and Mikhail Gorbachev, for the far-reaching effects on the world of wine of his anti-alcohol campaign'. Robinson reveals that there has also been an effort to avoid the book being overly biased towards English speakers: We have depended on European input rather more than in previous editions, which owed so much to Australia and the United States.'
Just in case readers were running out of food-matching ideas, JAMIE GOODE comes up with a whole new world of opportunity: ice cream. Experimentalists are pointed towards NV Lustau Old East India Sherry (7.99; Waitrose).
Read more...'My main task this week is to decide what I'm going to drink over the next month,' says TIM ATKIN MW. The reason for this bout of hard work is the imminent drinking fest that is the 2006 World Cup, and Atkin is keen to stock up on the necessary vino. 'Given that 18 of the 32 qualifiers are wine-producing nations, I've asked friends to match the bottles to the countries on the pitch.' He's a little concerned about what to do when Poland takes on Ecuador but, in general, things are looking pretty good. 'Eight of the world's leading wine countries are playing, including France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Portugal, Australia, the United States and Argentina. I could happily drink wines from that line-up for the rest of my life.' One of the wines he's already looked out is 2005 Finca Flichman Malbec Reserva, Mendoza. (5.99; Waitrose).
Read more...MATTHEW JUKES goes pink this week with a definitive rundown on French ross'. 2005 Louis Jadot Beaujolais Ros (6.99; Waitrose) is cherry scented' and only graceful ladies need apply', while 2005 Domaine Saint-Antoine Ros, Costires de Nmes (5.49; Oddbins) is a chunky ros with a spine of blackberry juice and liquorice'.
All too often, when it comes to judging the seriousness of a wine (as opposed to the drinker), a kind of apartheid sets in, with red considered the elite,' reports VICTORIA MOORE. This is doing a great disservice to the top whites of the world, in her opinion, and she singles out a few which are worth upgrading to even on a small budget'. One example is 2005 Tim Adams Clare Valley Riesling (7.99; Tesco).
