It's the turn of TIM ATKIN MW to say farewell to Australian legend Len Evans this week and the praise is plentiful: Evans was a showman, wit, exhibitionist and raconteur, who championed Australian wine styles with considerable vigour.' He admits that the Australian wine industry today is not without its problems - such as over-supply and a few disappointing brands - but there is just as much reason for optimism'. With Len Evans in mind, Atkin picks out some Aussie classics, including 2004 Tesco Finest Denman Vineyard Semillon (7.99; Tesco).