Steak is on the menu for VICTORIA MOORE and there are plenty of red wine options to consider. Shiraz is a winner with a peppery steak and Moore recommends 2000 Geoff Merrill McLaren Vale Reserve Shiraz (12.99; Tesco) but different rules apply elsewhere. For example, the tannic austerity of a Chianti is tamed out of recognition by a hulk of bleeding T-bone'. Suggestions include 2004 Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico (around 10; M&S, Tesco, Waitrose).