Douglas Blyde: tasting from Rencontres Méditerranéennes du Muscat

I was less than excited about spending my birthday flitting, pin ball like, between the ash grey lecture rooms of Perpignan's Georges Pompidou Congress Centre.

Fortunately, the promise of a nip of elixir, Passito from the volcanic island of Pantelleria in the strait of Sicily got me out of my economy bed and into the master class.

Representing the only non French producer in attendance at the four day Muscat-centric conference, this was hosted by José Rallo of Donnafugata.

Rallo explained that Donnafugata operates three cellars in Sicily, from their oldest in Marsala (1851), to the most recent on Pantelleria (1989). "Although you can drive around the island in one hour, there are major differences in the terrain", she explained. "From the flatness of sea level, mountains suddenly soar 500m. There are strong winds in the steep south but gentle breezes in the north."

Despite the island's diminutive scale, Rallo claims this leads to a multitude of different growing conditions and therefore vinous expressions. Indeed, 68ha of bush vines are sewn across no fewer than 11 rugged terroirs. A number of these are shielded in hollows, with the prime terroir
being seven hectares of ungrafted vines aged over 100years.

Donnafugata specialise in the cultivation of the amusing sounding 'zibibo' on Pantelleria, Italy's synonym for Muscat of Alexandria. One of the oldest genetically unmodified vines in existence, other than Italy, it may also be found sinking roots in Australia, South Africa, Greece and Spain and her islands. With an eye to the future, in partnership with Milan University, Donnafugata manage an experimental 'orchard' of 38 clones of zibibo.

"Passito takes around three times as much work as our dry wines on the mainland," said Rallo. Not only is this due to the demands of the arid terrain, which Rallo described as 'heroic viticulture', but the multiple passes required to garner the ripest fruit. This is then sun-dried amongst the fig trees and wild rosemary at the island's sustainable Contrada Khamma winery, which is gracefully clad in lava.

An unexpected highlight of the event was the moment Rallo burst into song in order to illustrate the firm's commitment to 'music and wine'. Her confident rendition of 'Sicily' by Pino Daniele proved reassuringly tuneful.

José regularly stages events whereby wine is paired with jazz. Indeed, fundraising concerts for Palermo City Hospital have been held in New York, Shanghai.

The Tasting:

Kabir Moscato di Pantelleria '08: Beginning to take on warm gold notes; floral hint with citrus, melon; delicate sweetness on the palate, mineral, nervy, long-lived

Ben Ryè '08: From all 11 terroirs. Copper-bronze in colour, viscous; greengage marmalade on nose; unctuous, 200g / litre of residual sugar on palate is swiftly rinsed by impressive acidity.

www.donnafugata.it
www.rencontres-muscat.com

• Harpers Says...