A farewell to custard pies

Published: 25 September, 2008

It's funny what thoughts pop into your head on a long tasting tour of South Africa, but I did not expect to be thinking about my old A-level history teacher when I set off to Cape Wine in Cape Town last weekend.

But his rather unique teaching style did come to mind while talking to many of the innovative and welcoming winemakers over the last few days. He once lambasted me for what he described as my "custard pie and dartboard" approach to writing an essay about the Industrial Revolution. It was, he suggested, the literary equivalent of throwing a custard pie at a dartboard in the hope of hitting double tops.

I may, he said, have succeeded in hitting the right number; but I had also managed to hit every other number along the way.

Anyway, all this reminded me of the approach - or changing approach - of so many of the winemakers I spoke to at Cape Wine. They admitted their approach to winemaking had in the past been a little guilty of the custard pie mentality, growing every possible variety in the hope of finding a definitive style of wine. Or, just as likely, the fear of producing a variety that noone wanted to buy or drink.

But, it seems, the picture is changing. Confidence levels are up and winemakers have become far more refined in their approach. There is still a huge amount of experimenting going on -which makes South Africa a fascinating country to visit and its wine so diverse to taste - but it is being done with a more practised and mature approach.

The darts, as it were, are now being thrown with far more aplomb - and in very specific directions. If Chenin Blanc just happens to be the best possible wine to be made on your winery - sorry farm - then Chenin Blanc it should be.

It may not be good news for those who like their custard pies, but it is good news for everyone else down the wine-supply chain.

And I know an old retired history teacher who will be pleased to know the South African wines he buys have been made in such a precise and targeted manner.

Richard Siddle is the editor of Harpers magazine.