The Guardian

As yet another 'down-at-heel local' bites the dust in favour of a 'spatchcocked quail-serving gastropub', VICTORIA MOORE wonders what on earth happens to the 'old men seemingly welded to the old, sticky-topped bar'. It is in deference to these 'honest folk who know their place' - and in defiance of the 'arriviste middle-class riffraff' - that Moore finds herself recommending 2004 Cao (2.99, down from 4.49; Tesco). 'So outrageously cheap', she says, 'that it prices no one out of the market. And it comes from a cooperative, too. How much more egalitarian can you get?'