Nick Gillett: Vermouth's underappreciated charm

By Nick Gillett

Published: 09 June, 2025

I do so enjoy punctuating my usual grumbly opinion pieces with love letters to spirits. And this month, it’s the turn of vermouth. An historic fortified wine infused with various botanical flavours, it’s a firm favourite all over Europe, in the United States, and perhaps unexpectedly, in South America. It conjures romantic images of shaded al fresco drinking spots, on sunny European streets, and it’s bloody delicious to boot. So why isn’t it a staple in our booze cupboards at home? Here’s my reasoning for why it should be.

Imbued in history

Pour yourself a drink and settle in for a brief history lesson. The first vermouth in its modern form was created by the Carpano family in 1786, In Turin. The alpine region where Vermouth is most famously made is spread across the French-Italian border. Once part of the “Duchy of Savoy” – interestingly, the monarchy that gave its name to London’s Savoy hotel – the region was abundant in vineyards but made very average wine. The area was also abundant with different herbs and botanicals, so the two came together. This created a liquid that lasted longer than wine – a key feature that made it popular with people on their travels, given the region was close to so many international trade routes.

Dolin, is a family-owned distillery in Chambery – right at the heart of this region – and happens to be part of the Mangrove portfolio. They first created Vermouth de Chambery in 1821. And whilst the company has expanded its range, the recipes and traditions have remained the same for over 200 years. That’s what this spirit is all about – tradition, local heritage, and a curated recipe that makes these true vermouths very, very difficult to replicate. I knew instantly we had to have them as part of the portfolio. What they do is so unique, Dolin was granted an ‘Appellation d’Origine Controlee’ in 1932 and still has that protection in place to this day.

But before that, there were various iterations of infused wines. The Romans loved the stuff. And as with many things in roman culture, they were inspired by the Ancient Greeks in this regard. In fact, our friends at Difford’s Guide suggest that the history of Vermouth stretches back to around 400 BC. The ‘Father of Medicine’, Hippocrates, supposedly imbued Wormwood in Greek Wine to create a cure for common ailments like rheumatism and anaemia. A pretty cool anecdote that, if true, means vermouth outdates so many of our modern-day spirits categories.

Versatile vermouth

The fact that vermouth travelled so well took it to various parts of the world where its influence was distilled into different cultures. In Argentina – they still like to drink it neat over ice. In New York, it became a key ingredient for the legendary Manhattan cocktail. In fact, without Vermouth, we wouldn’t have martinis or negronis – to which it lends its rich, herbaceous flavour. Perhaps the best-known ‘vermouth’ is Martini (the branded spirit, not the cocktail) but some of its SKUs can’t actually be classed as vermouth, due to the appellation. Not a lot of people know that… but you do now!

Now whilst the great British public might underappreciate this gem of a spirit, that’s certainly not the case for the on-trade. Bartenders love this stuff. Yes, they need it for so many wonderful cocktails, but they also appreciate how delicious a simple vermouth and soda can be. When it comes to simple mixes, the quality and complexity of a spirit can truly shine – and vermouth has those qualities in abundance.

So, where’s it all headed? Well, with its strong roots in cocktail culture and the growth of spritzes, there’s an opportunity for vermouth. The flavour profile lends itself perfectly to a spritz style serve, and as a key ingredient many bars are likely to have on the shelf for other cocktails, it’s a perfect pick for a spritz spirit. `

We’re also seeing a bit of a shift away from sweeter drinks, which is great news for vermouth. More complex profiles and bitter flavours are coming back into fashion; negronis, martinis, and aperitifs, are all evidence of that shift.

And finally, it’s relatively low abv, averaging between 16% and 18%. When mixed long, or even enjoyed neat, it’s a fantastic option for those practicing moderation or looking for lower-alcohol alternatives.

Where to begin?

But if you’re not a bartender and want to explore vermouth, where do you begin?

For me – that’s easy. Dolin’s range of French vermouths are absolutely out of this world. Beyond one single brand recommendation, be sure to look for provenance and tradition when you’re choosing a vermouth. These drinks represent a taste of history; they’ve been revered all over the world, for hundreds of years. Making vermouth is an artform. Modern producers have tried and failed to replicate its character, so don’t fall for the style over substance that some of these pretenders are offering! That’s actually a good piece of advice for the wider spirits industry too. Look for an appellation of origin or protection (only a few producers have it); prioritise provenance and situation within a particular place and tradition; and when it comes to vermouth, be sure it comes from that region near the French-Italian border.

To enjoy at home, start off by enjoying it long, mixed with soda over ice and a fruity garnish. And from there, explore the category by enjoying it neat over ice. I’m a huge advocate that this underrated little bottle will amaze you with its flexibility. Have it in your booze cupboard, mix it into cocktails, use different sodas and flavours in your simple mixes, and enjoy the quiet sophistication you feel, sipping Europe’s best kept secret spirit.

Nick Gillett is MD of premium spirit specialist Mangrove UK.

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