Friday read: The first Taiwanese wine debuts in London
In London’s highly competitive wine market, importing wines from unknown regions is a calculated risk. Though a compelling story behind the wine is almost guaranteed, storytelling alone is not enough to sell bottles. Earlier this year, Sunny Hodge made waves as the first importer to introduce a Taiwanese wine from Weightstone Winery to the UK. Confident in its potential, Hodge believes the wine has the necessary allure and simply needs the right stage to make its mark.
Hodge is the founder and owner of London’s award-winning wine bars, Diogenes the Dog and aspen & meursault. With a background in engineering, he never pursued a career in the field, instead becoming captivated by hospitality and wine.
His two wine bars are renowned for being unconventional, often featuring wines that are far from mainstream. “I love all new winemaking climates,” said Hodge. “Though I'm truly mesmerised by the dichotomy of non-wine drinking cultures embracing Western ideals of modern grape wine. This includes India, China, Taiwan and more,” he added.
Hodge first encountered Taiwanese wines while serving as a panel chair for the IWSC’s Asian wine category during a judging session.
Impressed by the quality and precision of Taiwanese wines, Hodge soon entered discussions with Vivian Yang of Weightstone Winery. Its white wine, WE4, a blend of three hybrids (Golden Muscat, Mehone and Musann Blanc), is now being exported to the UK through Hodge’s distribution network.
“New winemaking regions often start by producing sweet wines of varying quality to cater to a less wine-savvy domestic market. With Weightstone, they’ve gone straight for the European gastronomic crowd and committed fully. It’s very impressive,” Hodge explained.
However, viticulture in Taiwan is far from easy. The island faces considerable difficulties due to its subtropical climate, high humidity, and the constant threat of typhoons during the growing season. After trials with over 200 vitis vinifera varieties proved unsuccessful, Taiwanese winegrowers turned to hybrids, with local research centres even developing a few that are unique to Taiwan. The island’s winemaking industry is currently experiencing a revival, following the end of an 80-year government alcohol monopoly in 2002, when Taiwan joined the World Trade Organisation (WTO).
Image: Sunny Hodge, founder of Diogenes the Dog
Despite its premium price point (£40 rrp), “WE4 is worth every penny,” Hodge said. He highlights that WE4 boasts an aromatic profile with rich tropical fruit notes and a voluminous mouthfeel. Since its release in May, “I’ve not had a glass turned down,” Hodge added, underscoring the wine’s exceptional quality and justifying its premium pricing. He adds that at a recent Coravin sommelier event, where the wine was presented blind to a panel of experts, including buyers and head sommeliers from prestigious venues, WE4 held its own and received glowing reviews.
But it’s not without challenges. “Asia is producing standout wines as we speak and has been for some time,” Hodge noted. However, the perception of products from Asian countries often hampers their success in the UK and European markets.
“The unfortunate reality is that goods from Asia are frequently perceived as cheap or of poor quality, a bias that extends to wine,” said Hodge. This initial prejudice can be difficult to overcome, but Hodge has found that once consumers taste fine examples of Asian wine, these misconceptions quickly dissipate. He believes the key to changing these perceptions lies in continued promotion, tasting opportunities, and maintaining an open mind towards new wine styles.
Bringing an unknown Taiwanese wine to the UK market was a bold move for Hodge, but one grounded in a deep understanding of the UK’s distinctive and exploratory wine culture. “With all the ‘off the beaten track’ wines we import, there’s a significant element of risk,” Hodge admits. However, he places his trust in the insatiable thirst for discovery that characterises the UK market, particularly among food and wine enthusiasts. He noted that the UK market is more open to new experiences and willing to embrace unconventional wines. This openness, combined with the exceptional quality of Taiwanese wines, creates a fertile ground for these niche products to flourish.
Looking ahead, Hodge plans to expand the portfolio of Taiwanese wines in the UK, but with a cautious approach. For now, the focus remains on building a cult following for WE4, allowing it to establish a reputation before introducing a broader range of Taiwanese wines to the UK market.
Leona De Pasquale DipWSET is a wine writer, translator, and the founder of Camellia and Vine, a wine and tea training company in London.
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