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Spain Report: Owen Morgan on Sherry

It’s hard to assess how the sherry region and wines are performing. You’ll see positive articles about revival or revolution, but then a report claiming dire straits. Like most things, the truth lies somewhere in the middle, with some wins and losses. 

Snapshot on sales 

According to the latest data from the Consejo Regulador DO Jerez and Manzanilla, global sales in 2023 are marginally down, -0.27% on 2022. The UK continues to be the largest export market, accounting for 27% of all sales this year. Manzanilla remains the leading style overall, though mainly down to its popularity domestically in Spain.

• Read more: French vignerons loot Spanish Cava and red wine

Fino continues to dwarf manzanilla in the export market, and sales of medium and cream sherry are still the largest globally, although sales of all dry styles combined are just slightly above that of all sweet styles overall. 

New Consejo regulations, a year on 

Twelve months into significant changes allowed by the DO and things seem to be developing. Two of the regulations stand out most – unfortified styles are now allowed under the fino and manzanilla banners and, encouragingly, quality on-trade outlets and wine merchants are showing them off to good effect.  

Another big change was the increase in the ageing zone, meaning the famed ‘sherry triangle’ of the three principal towns is, in theory, no longer. This has seen more bottlings under the sherry label beginning to emerge. The next few years will be interesting, and time will tell if Chipiona, Rota, Puerto Real, Chiclana, Trebujena and Lebrija benefit from this change. 

The hip end 

Over previous years and what looks set to continue is that certain styles have earned cult status, seen as the ‘must-have’ wines. 

Annual fino and manzanilla en rama releases aren’t new, but still look strong and continue to offer marketing opportunities. The trend of ageing these wines is also more popular, as the best examples develop excellently. Tio Pepe en Rama by González Byass is always a success and most large bodegas now release one annually. Of course, some bottle en rama as standard, to varying degrees of ‘minimal filtration’, with all styles not just biologically aged. 

Vino de pasto continues to grow. Examples are more readily available, and lauded for quality and point of difference. This will become more visible on restaurant lists and in the off-trade. Mumblings are mooted on whether the unfortified styles will take eyes off the classic fino sherries, but most agree the quality level is a good thing for the region. It’s an entry point for white wine lovers into biologically aged sherry too. Pioneers in bringing back these styles are giving the category a ‘cool’ edge. 

Vintage, statically aged sherry, also has fans. Producers are releasing more statically aged vintages in tiny amounts, as well as statically aged finos. These bring sherry back to the premium end of fine wine, to covet for special occasions or cellar ageing. Williams and Humbert’s Vintage collection stands out, with others such as Tradición, Lustau, González Byass and Valdespino offering world-class options. 

Terroir to the fore 

This gives much more of a spotlight to quality and process, which is great for those who thought everything about sherry is what happens in a solera system. A commitment to showcasing bottlings from small plots within top-level pagos is more common, and terroir specifics are coming through in the wine. This being present on labels creates interest and curiosity. People within the wine community but not sherry-focused are having their heads turned. 

Cocktail sector 

A mixologist’s friend forever, styles of sherry are behind any cocktail bar worth its salt. Finos and manzanillas can be incorporated into sophisticated Martinis and fun takes on Mojitos. Amontillado, palo cortado and oloroso are also utilised in high-level creative drinks using complex techniques and seasonal produce, while also taking on classics such as Negronis, Manhattans and Old Fashioneds.  

Digital  

Digital strategy has become key to improving visibility, reach and understanding of the subject of sherry. The DO has overhauled this beyond recognition. The official sherry wine website is a fantastic resource, housing information on styles, producers, history, educators and more. There are now two online academy courses you can take on the site, a basic or advanced, both of which are excellent toolkits. International Sherry Week also celebrates its 10th anniversary on 6 November, having seen more than 2,000 events last year in over 25 countries, generating an organic reach of 9.6 million online. 

Duty hike 

Almost £1 per bottle on to some styles makes the access point for the consumer unnecessarily high. When the sherry world is being creative and taking steps forward, policies like this beggar belief, and could potentially undo all the good work done for the category in this country.

To conclude 

The figures tell part of sherry’s story. This year most of the figures have been stable with some fluctuations, but also off the back of skewed data from previous Covid years. You could look negatively at some stats but shouldn’t.  

The story should be one of positive change and strides to improve. There’s been informative, simple and engaging digital modernisation. While on the ground, there have been significant changes to benefit producers, variety, quality and interest from afar. Focus on terroir as well as bodega ageing, vintage bottlings, vino de pasto and new varieties are permitted again, and give cause for celebration with the hope of attracting new and old consumers alike. 

• Sherry
• gonzález byass
• owen morgan
• 44 group
• Tradición
• Lustau
• Consejo Regulador DO Jerez and Manzanilla