Advertisement Feature: Boosting Bergerac
Let’s collectively banish the notion that Bergerac is simply a “pleasant alternative” to Bordeaux. Indeed, the delectable wines of the south-west have their own distinct identity, notwithstanding the popularity of Cabernet Sauvignon – and Merlot – in the vineyards of the Dordogne. Yet there are key differences: the climate shows more continental flourishes than the Atlantic-influenced Gironde, for example, and there are well-drained limestone soils on higher ground. The potential to make outstanding wine in the green valleys of Bergerac is unprecedented.
In the early 2000s, Robert and Ksenia Wessman accepted the challenge. The Icelandic businessman and his wife purchased a beautiful estate called Château Saint-Cernin, located in Saint-Cernin-de Labarde within the Bergerac AOC. In 2021, Maison Wessman expanded its portfolio with the addition of Vignoble des Verdots in the picturesque commune of Conne-de-Labarde. Today sustainable viticulture is undertaken according to the strict rules of the HVE3 certification programme; Wessman has also invested in the reduction of phytosanitary inputs.
The firm sources grapes from a trio of exceptional terroirs: Monbazillac, the limestone soils of the high Issigeac plateau in Périgord and Limoux in the Languedoc-Roussillon. These raw materials are used to make a range of artisan labels, including the N°1 Saint Cernin Rouge, a velvet blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
The Château Les Tours des Verdots Blanc, meanwhile, is a pungent and forceful dry white based on Sauvignon Blanc and Gris, Muscadelle and Semillon.
“We stock wines from several producers in Bergerac,” says Monta Cimdina, a director at VINVM. “In my opinion this is a great region that is capable of producing high-quality wines in a similar style to Bordeaux. I am keen to explore this region more and hopefully will be bringing more producers on in the near future.”
Grapes in the spotlight
However, the wines of Bergerac and its environs were traditionally viewed as inferior to blue-chip Bordeaux – Pauillac, Sauternes and Saint-Emilion. But Maison Wessman and others have led the way in proving that this corner of France can produce superlative wines of all three colours and different sweetness levels.
Maison Wessman’s winemaker Lise Sadirac, a professional with over 20 years’ experience, deserves considerable credit for this revolution. She represents a new wave of ambitious oenologists determined to raise the bar to stratospheric heights.
“My winemaking philosophy is simple: do as little as possible so that the grapes are in the spotlight. The grape is the star of the wines,” says Sadirac. “This apparent simplicity is not easy to achieve in reality. Indeed, it is not doing nothing, but it is supporting the vinification and ageing to reveal the terroirs.”
Her talents reach an apogee when crafting the N°1 Saint-Cernin Blanc: 100% Chardonnay matured in barrique for 10 months. In the western hills south of Carcassonne, Limoux established a reputation centuries ago for its crisp and fruity traditional-method sparkling wines. The secret to the wine’s innate freshness is the cooling influence of the Atlantic, wisely exploited by Sadirac to produce a very ripe and yet balanced expression of Limoux Chardonnay; New World vivacity allied to Burgundian finesse.
This is Maison Wessman’s philosophy: celebrate diversity in wine that flows from unique terroir. Thanks to a judicious mix of sustainable viticulture and sophisticated winemaking, the house is producing complex and well-structured wines to rival (but not simply imitate) some of Bordeaux’s leading appellations. Modern Bergerac, despite its humble beginnings, is a revelation. And Maison Wessman is the exemplar.
Maison Wessman is seeking distribution in the UK
Q&A: Lise Sadirac, winemaker, Maison Wessman
Since you started your tenure at Maison Wessman, what key changes have you overseen at the estates in Bergerac?
I come from the organic world and it was important for me to drastically reduce herbicides in particular, to promote soil life and its microbial activity. Therefore, we settled on mechanical weeding and de-budding under the vine row, and increased the naturally grassed areas with later mulching. We also developed agroforestry and invested in winemaking.
How important is sustainability to Maison Wessman?
Sustainability is very important: in particular, we have a major hedge-planting and agroforestry campaign that we started last year. We co-plant all our high-end plots so that they last for decades to come. We are replanting the plots best suited to viticulture and we have allowed a young local farmer to work the land in crop rotation. All our practices are controlled and certified by HVE3. The carbon footprint is also very important to us: we participate in the development of innovative eco-designed and lightweight bottles and we are in the process of carbon assessment with the Chamber of Agriculture and implementing all possible reduction methods for carbon neutrality as an objective in 2030.
What do you think are Bergerac’s most important USPs?
For me, the keywords of Bergerac wines are ‘balance’ and ‘diversity’, which fit together by the way. Indeed, with the absolutely fantastic diversity of terroirs, especially on the edge and on the limestone of Issigeac, polyculture is applied (wheat fields, cows, walnut trees, woods and vines coexist) and the winegrowers can plant and care for vines that produce dry white wines, rosés, young reds, wines for ageing and of course sweet wines, such as Monbazillac. I had never seen so many winegrowing traditions and innovations brought together in a single territory. Our range in particular offers more than 15 different wines.
Maison Wessman Tasting Notes
Château Saint-Cernin
Saint-Cernin Héritage Sauvignon Blanc Sémillon 2021, Bergerac Sec, France
A classic white Bordeaux blend fermented in stainless-steel tanks. Clean and fresh with ripe acid balancing out the concentrated mid-palate that showcases citrus and stone fruit.
Petit Cernin Blanc 2019, Limoux, France
Barrel-fermented Chardonnay that is unashamedly rich and fruit-forward: honeysuckle, pineapple and stone fruit dominate the mid-palate, supported by a textbook acid line. Impressive length.
Saint-Cernin No 1 2018, Limoux, France
Proof indeed that Limoux is an exceptional terroir for growing Chardonnay. It offers the concentration of a premier cru Meursault allied to the elegance of Chablis; oak and fruit are harmoniously combined in this very stylish, pear-scented white.
Saint-Cernin Héritage Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec 2019, Bergerac, France
An expressive bouquet of crushed red fruit sets the scene for a ripe and silky blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Supple in tannin and very fresh, this is very approachable now. Hints of black pepper and capsicum on the finish.
Petit Cernin Rouge 2019, Bergerac, France
Another standout blend from Maison Wessman. The nose is ripe and inviting: red fruit intermingles with damson and Chinese Five Spice. The palate is no less intense, and yet extremely fresh and poised with its core of blackcurrant fruit and mocha on the finish. Polished winemaking comes shining through in elegant and supple tannins.
Saint-Cernin No 1 Rouge 2019, Bergerac, France
Force and finesse merge in Saint-Cernin No 1, with succulent, plump Merlot stealing the show. Yet the Cabernet Sauvignon provides welcome structure and acid to the wine, with a concentrated mid-palate of violets, blackberry, sour cherry and chocolate.
As is typical with Maison Wessman, the fruit is underscored by a distinctive minerality and subtle notes of garrigue.
Vignoble des Verdots
Château Les Tours des Verdots Blanc 2021, Bergerac Sec, France
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle. Every variety plays an important role in the wine, including the floral-scented Muscadelle (just 5%). Intense ripe fruit is complemented by judicious ageing in French barrique, with lovely melon and lime notes on the mid-palate. Lovely acidity too.
Château Les Tours des Verdots Grand Vin Blanc 2020, Bergerac Sec, France
This Sauvignon Blanc-dominant blend uses fruit sourced from old vines on the limestone plateau. Ripeness and opulence define this Bergerac expression of Graves Blanc. Yet the wine does not lack freshness despite the oceans of funk and tropical fruit on the mid-palate, supported by a silky – maybe even oily – texture. Exquisite.
Château Les Tours des Verdots Rouge 2020, Côtes de Bergerac, France
Ninety per cent Merlot topped up with a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Black fruit and strawberry jam drive the palate forward, with good length.
Château Les Tours des Verdots Grand Vin Rouge 2020, Côtes de Bergerac, France A very precise and yet exotic red that seduces with its silky tannins, velvety mouthfeel and core of ripe black fruit. The wine is supremely elegant and already quite complex, with notes of damson, garrigue, blueberry and blackcurrant. Impeccably balanced and fresh, this can only get better.
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56-58 Church Walk, Burgess Hill, West Sussex, RH15 9AN
Registered in England No. 6646125. VAT No. 938 4452 95
