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Champagne Summit tasting

Published:  12 March, 2010

Claire Hu and Carol Emmas tasted their way round the tables at the inaugural Champagne Summit, at the Soho Hotel, in February.

Claire Hu and Carol Emmas tasted their way round the tables at the inaugural Champagne Summit, at the Soho Hotel, in February.

As well as the four partners' tables (Besserat de Bellefon, Castelnau, Lanson and Taittinger) there were themed flights around rosé, zero dosage and food styles of Champagne, additionally featuring Laurent-Perrier, Pannier, Pommery and Bollinger.

The fresh, zesty and pure fruit style of Lanson, which does not undergo malolactic fermentation, was clear to see.

The nonvintage Black Label (r rp £28.99) was balanced and rounded with ripe fruit notes and honey. The Gold Label 1999 (r rp £37.99) was full in texture, with a hint of honey and molasses on the nose, and a lovely sherbety note. The Lanson Extra Age Brut (rrp £57.99) is a blend of three vintages: 1999, 2002 and 2003, and had a perfumed nose hinting at savouriness, with pear and honey.

Taittinger was showing its Brut Reserve NV (£34.99), one of our favourite NVs on the market, with its flowery, opulent nose and biscuity, weighty mouthfeel. The Prélude Grands Crus NV ( rrp £42.50), made from four grand cru sites with a minimum of four years on the lees, was a success with a lovely fruity and rounded style.

The Blanc de Blancs Brut 1998 ( rrp £140) was surprisingly characterful for a 100% Chardonnay, remaining intensely fresh with great flavour and depth. Besserat de Bellefon showed among the liveliest, most fruit driven Champagnes we've ever tasted, all Pinot Meunier dominant and made particularly for food.

The Champagne Besserat de Bellefon Cuvée des Moines Brut NV (rrp £29.99) opens with a frenetic mousse and the palate has flavours of white fruit, tropical notes and a nutty finish.

The Champagne Besserat de Bellefon Cuvée des Moines Brut Rosé (rrp £33.99) has plenty of soft red fruit and a hint of Christmas cake. More linear in style was Champagne De Castelnau Vintage 2000 (rrp £30.99) with citrus, almond and spice notes and a generous backbone of acidity.

Champagne De Castelnau Blanc de Blancs 1998 (rrp £31.99) continues in the restrained fruit style with subtle notes of white peach, spice and almonds.

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