New investors see Beaujolais potential

Plans to create Beaujolais's first premier cru classification have been unveiled by a major family company which is producing its first vintage from the area.

The Henriot family, which has bought the 50ha Château de Poncié in Fleurie, is supporting a long-term project to map out the terroir of the 10 crus of Beaujolais with the aim of creating a premium category within the next decade.

Thomas Henriot, who is managing the Poncié project, believes the region has great potential despite years of under-investment and declining quality.

He said: "Beaujolais Nouveau has played a role in creating the image of Beaujolais we have today. There are still people today who know cru Beaujolais can be a very good wine - and we will be talking more about Fleurie and Poncié than about Beaujolais.

"Between 1900 and 1950 the prices of Beaujolais crus used to be at the same level as Burgundy grand cru but then the image and quality went down. My first question when I came here was why prices have fallen so much and what we can do about it. We bought this estate because we believe in the terroir."

Henriot said the trend toward lower alcohol wines placed Beaujolais, which is naturally around 11-12% abv, in a good position.
The estate is helping to fund a study being carried out by the Union des Crus de Beaujolais, and supported by the region's trade group, to map out the soils, climate and topography of the region. "The aim is to have precise and accurate knowledge of the terroir in the cru areas and find out where the best terroir is," said Henriot. "Once we have that knowledge we'll be in a postion to go to the INAO about premier cru status."
To improve quality, the gobelet vines on the Poncié site are being trained on wires and the 214 individual parcels of land are being mapped out and will eventually be blended to make up two wines from the estate.
The name Poncié also applies to the local terroir and can be used by other Fleurie producers, and as the Henriots hope to produce Beaujolais from other crus outside of Fleurie the overall name Villa Ponciago will be used for the brand.

• Sommeliers