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Wines in the Press- February 5-7

Guardian

Victoria Moore is having a rummage through the Wine Society warehouse at its Stevenage HQ. She says there are several un-surprises, including many of the society's own labels such as a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, made by Viña Leyda, and Argentine Malbec, made by Susana Balbo - "nothing but the best for the WS".

Moore says, being owned by the members, it still aims to sell the best it can for the lowest price, anyone can join and £40 gives you a lifetime membership.

"So what's good? Quite a lot, as it happens," says Moore. She recommends a Plantagenet Riesling 2008, Australia (£10.95). The new vintage of De Martino Legado Limari Valley Chardonnay 2008 (£7.50). "You can almost see the crayfish swimming towards it, ready to go on a plate with some mayo".

Tim Atkin

The Australians aren't ones to complain, says Tim Atkin MW. But one told him, "we're stuffed, mate".

A combination of drought, falling exports and massive overproduction, have burst the Australian bubble, says Atkin and as the 2010 harvest approaches, some growers are talking about leaving vineyards unpicked.

But Atkin says he thinks they will come through the crisis in decent shape. "The reason for my optimism is that it's making better wines, at every price, than at any time in its history. More to the point, Australia is increasingly focused on regional expression rather than multi-state blends from South Eastern Australia."

Telegraph

Thank goodness for wine on Valentine's Day, as an alternative from garage flowers and cuddly toys, says Susy Atkins.

She says she wants the "romantic clink of glasses on Saturday night, accompanied, ideally, by the sound of a thousand tiny bubbles gently popping".

Pink is still riding high this year, she claims and more than ever for Valentine's Day. But Atkins says she will be opening a very good white Brut Champagne, ideally with luxury seafood, lobster.

She recommends GH Martel Champagne Brut NV, France (Morrisons, down to £13.99 while stocks last; Tesco, down to £16.98 until 24 February).

"Biscuit and toast, roasted almonds and a fresh, crisp bite - Martel Brut is on fine form, and at great prices this week in certain stores."

Financial Times

Today's increasingly sophisticated consumers have become rather bored by big volume brand Champagnes and have been branching out into Champagnes from the growers themselves, says Jancis Robinson MW.

"There is something immediately attractive about buying at source. It chimes with our modern quest for traceability and our desire to commune with the earth."

But Robinson says a recent blind tasting of 64 mixed Champagnes showed the growers' Champagne is not necessarily superior.

She thought a number of growers' Champagnes were not particularly well made. "Some of them seemed rather coarse and simple to me. Meanwhile, the big houses' Champagnes showed pretty well."

Sunday Express

Soup is the course that challenges wine experts most, says Jamie Goode. "I'm not sure why - perhaps it's to do with matching liquid to liquid or the fact that all the soup's flavours are combined in a spoonful, leaving little space for a wine to work."

Not to be deterred, Goode has chosen Donnafugata Polena 2008, Sicily (£11.99, Oddbins) for its blend of the Viognier and Catarrato grapes. Goode claims it has lovely flavours of pear, peach and grapefruit pith, with a hint of spiciness and would work well with most soups.

Keeping to Viognier blends, he has also chosen Stumble Vineyards Chenin Viognier 2009, South Africa (£6.99, Laithwaites).

"This brilliantly vibrant white wine is made by the talented Bruce Jack at his Flagstone winery. It has powerful pear, lemon and herb flavours with a tangy grapefruit twist on the finish. Delicious and really good value for money," he says.