Nature knows best

I've never been a follower of fashion. When I decided to produce my own wine from the vineyards I acquired in the Loire Valley, I wanted it to be as natural a process as possible. Through my connections in Australia, I was keen to experience the planning, thought and realisation of a new winery.

Returning to France, the local builders were adamant the building should have a flat roof as this was less expensive. When I explained I wanted a pitched roof they were puzzled, particularly as I wished to save rainwater to be used and recycled within the winery. That required large water tanks and a water recycling plant. All well in
Australia, but in France, I wa told, we have taps for water!

Not at any time have I considered using chemicals. The use of weedkiller is extensive in our region but on our vineyard we plant crops between our vines to help conserve water and add texture and friability to the soil. Our higher post and open space trellising, and our leaf plucking methods, deliver greater light and more air
circulation, resulting in healthier plants. This has helped our wines have such an intense flavour and texture.

As an industry there is a need to educate the wine drinking population to appreciate the value of such practices and accept a higher price for a far better quality of wine - as they do for the big name producers in Bordeaux and Burgundy.

David Levin is proprietor of The Capital Group & Levin Wines.

• Harpers Says...