Tawny Port does not have the comfort factor of Vintage Port, says JOANNA SIMON, partly because it should be served chilled. Despite being the colour of terracotta tiles', she praises it for its versatility and as a match for killer chocolate puddings'. Watch out for cheap versions that don't indicate an age, she warns. Her recommendations include 10-Year-Old Marks & Spencer Aged Tawny (11.99), 10-Year-Old Noval Tawny Port (15.59; Waitrose) and Graham's The Tawny (14.99-15.09; Sainsbury's, Tesco, Thresher, Waitrose).