SUSY ATKINS claims that it is now 'de rigeur to recommend wine instead of lager with a curry'. She says what is needed are soft, rounded reds such as Shiraz-Cabernets or Zinfandel, or whites with bags of ripe fruit such as Chardonnays and Chardonnay-Semillons. Her 'Try These...' are: 2005 Les Jamelles Viognier, Vin de Pays d'Oc (4.99, Co-op); 2004 McWilliams Hanwood Chardonnay (5.99, Morrisons); and 2003 Leasingham Magnus Shiraz-Cabernet, Clare Valley (7.99 Somerfield).