Brunello di Montalcino is the subject of ANTHONY ROSE's column this week. Of the region that was the first to receive Italy's DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) in 1980, he says: 'Even within Italy, no zone offers such a vivid expression of the Sangiovese grape.' His recommendations include: 2001 Banfi Poggio Alle Mura (22, Majestic); 2004 Sesti (14.50, Jeroboams); and 2001 Barbi Brunello (27.50, Cambridge Wine Merchants).