Don't lose your bottle, says JOANNA SIMON, advising readers on how to spot the best and the bargains on a restaurant wine list. Over two pages she gives a good account of what to look out for. She recommends avoiding 'the big names' and says that 2005 was a good vintage almost everywhere. On mark-ups, Simon says Ransome's Dock in south London and Arbutus in London's Soho are two of the more enlightened restaurants when it comes to lower margins on more expensive wine.