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The Independent

Published:  23 July, 2008

ANTHONY ROSE revisits Chianti and asks if it's ready to shed the image of the old straw-clad bottle for good. He remarks: This unlikely style icon of every trattoria table in the country was a fitting symbol of just how far Chianti's reputation has fallen in the sixties and seventies.' Improvements in vineyard and winemaking techniques have made a big difference, he discovers, which has all been in favour of Chianti Classico's main ingredient: Sangiovese. Planted in the right locations and properly handled, the Tuscan grape is now producing some superb quality wines.' Rose singles out a few examples to illustrate the point, including 2004 Taste the Difference Chianti Classico (7.59; Sainsbury's).