The Times

After a week involved in the annual Burgundy en primeur tasting jamboree, Jane MacQuitty decides that the 2004s deliver 'some surprisingly elegant, racy, pear and lime zest-spiked fruit'. She warns, however, not to be 'taken in by wine merchants' euphoria: [it] is a good not great vintage'. Similarly, 'don't go looking for keepers - you won't find them'. 2004 Burgundy is 'classic' and 'terroir-driven', unlike 'the opulent 2003s'. Her 'best of' list comes out next week. Picks for this week include the 2003 Graffigna Shiraz Reserve, Argentina (down 1 to 3.99, Co-op), 2001 Ironstone Vineyards Cabernet Franc, California (down 2 to 4.99, Waitrose), 2002 Mdoc, Bordeaux, Yvon Mau (down 2 to 4.99, Tesco) and 1998 Chanoine Champagne, Blanc de Blancs, Brut (down 15 to 14.99, Tesco).