'Italian wines are foodie numbers,' says MATTHEW JUKES as he introduces his guide to the complex wines of this Old World stalwart. 'The main attribute that Italian wines possess is a crunchy, refreshing lick of acidity on the finish. It is this magical ingredient that makes them so refreshing and also so adept at slicing through cheese or meat dishes.' This week's food focus (relating to the accompanying three-week series of excerpts from Jamie Oliver's new book of Italian recipes) is salads and pasta dishes, and Jukes's choice of wines to match include 2004 Tesco Finest Pinot Grigio, Isonzo del Friuli (5.99; Tesco) and 2004 Rosso di Montepulciano, Poliziano, Tuscany (8.99; Booths supermarkets, Sainsbury's).