'Devastated' by rumours that JOANNA SIMON is 'anti-Chardonnay', she goes out of her way to prove that this is most certainly not the case. She recommends 2003 Scotchmans Hill Geelong (9.99; Oddbins); 2003 Domaine de Massia (5.99, reduced to 5.49 each when two bottles are bought; Majestic); and 2003 Bouchard Finlayson Crocodile's Lair (9.99; Waitrose)