Soave: Brilliance through diversity

Boasting four distinct appellations  - Soave, Soave Classico, Soave Colli Scaligeri and Soave Superiore DOCG – and a surfeit of raw human talent, Soave is making waves in Italy and abroad.

Meanwhile, the consorzio has spearheaded revolutionary changes in viticultural methods and practices over the last 15 years;  synthetic inputs are being replaced with environmentally sound methods that prioritise soil health and biodiversity over yields. “Sustainability is fundamental to Soave: it is not only an ethical choice but also a form of direct investment by companies and winegrowers working in these hills,” explains Igor Gladich, director, Consorzio del Soave. “Preserving the productive area means ensuring a healthy environment for our children and future generations.”

Yet there is more, much more in fact: Soave is now recognised as a 'Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System' (GIAHS)  by the Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO) of the United Nations.  To date, it is the only wine region  to have received this honour – the culmination of a rigorous oversight and selection process. According to the consorzio, “The study to verify Soave's compliance with the requirements set by GIAHS began in 2008. It took 10 years of study, analysis, and verification by the FAO observers before receiving this prestigious recognition: a serious and rigorous path that testifies to the value of being a World Heritage Agricultural System.”

“Sustainability is fundamental to Soave: it is not only an ethical choice but also a form of direct investment by companies and winegrowers working in these hills,” explains Igor Gladich, director, Consorzio del Soave. “Preserving the productive area means ensuring a healthy environment for our children and future generations.”
Igor Gladich, director, Consorzio del Soave

However, Igor Gladich emphasises that membership of GIAHS is not simply a matter of prestige.  Galvanised by this recent development - and buoyed by ongoing investment – Soave's community of winegrowers is becoming ever-more collegiate, disseminating best practices and sharing ideas.

“ Agricultural methods are being promoted, for example, that encourage the spread of the Pergola training system; efforts are also made to disseminate guidelines among winegrowers that counteract soil erosion and favour the maintenance of dry stone walls,” says Gladich. 

“In addition, the maintenance of biodiversity is favoured and good practices for water management are sought; all of this will further the development of our reputation as a leading tourist destination – a direct consequence of these initiatives.”

A unique territory

The real key to understanding Soave, however, is to appreciate its diversity.   Awarded DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) status in 1968. The most historical subregion is the territory of Soave Classico, centred on the eastern end of the Lessini hills north of the village of Monteforte d'Alpone. For over two millennia, vines have been cultivated in these volcanic and limestone hills, harvested to produce exceptional wines.

“There are historical records that demonstrate vineyard cultivation dating back to the 5th century BC, under Etruscan influence. However, it is the position of Soave on the Via Postumia that sanctions the significant role of this territory during the Roman period, also for wine production,” reveals Igor Gladich.

He continues: “The area under vine can be delineated into two distinct subzones: the eastern area of markedly volcanic origin; the western area of calcareous origin. Here, the Garganega grape has always been cultivated, an indigenous white berry variety - the mother of Soave.” According to the appellation rules, Garganega must constitute at least 70 per cent of the final wine; Chardonnay and Trebbiano di Soave can also be added to the blend to enhance complexity and freshness. Yet the consorzio underlines the primacy of Garganega in Soave, observing that the region “has never been influenced by trends, not even when the world was clamouring for full-bodied red wines or sparkling wines.”

“The area under vine can be delineated into two distinct subzones: the eastern area of markedly volcanic origin; the western area of calcareous origin. Here, the Garganega grape has always been cultivated, an indigenous white berry variety - the mother of Soave.”
Igor Gladich, director, Consorzio del Soave

Topography and geology, explains Gladich, “Have influenced the choice to produce great white wines; the particular conformation of valleys and hills ensures a fresh and dry breeze coming from the pre-Alpine region.” He also differentiates between Soave's calcareous and volcanic terroirs, the latter being a product of the intense tectonic activity which, at the beginning of the tertiary period, characterised large parts of this zone.

“Our soils are ancient, complex, and deep,” he says. “Thus they aid the vine's root in finding the right amount of water and nutrients to produce high-quality and site-specific white wines.” The net result is a food-friendly and individual white, with a freshness to balance the fruit. Good Soave offers concentration, elegance, and depth, commodities that are in great demand today. Soave Superiore DOCG, meanwhile, is reserved for wines made from the finest climats, planted on poor soils and subject to restrictions regarding the maximum permitted yield.

Safeguarding the future

Another major story currently unfolding is the region's efforts to mitigate the worst aspects of climate change. According to Igor Gladich, “Garganega is a chameleon variety, capable of producing fresh wine in very different conditions. At a time when harvests are generally becoming increasingly early due to very hot and sometimes dry summers, Garganega, on the contrary, responds calmly to climate challenges with harvests held in mid-October, regardless of seasonal trends.”

Born of the ancient soils of Veneto, Soave is far more than simply a varietal expression of the Garganega grape. On the contrary, it represents a synergy between local soils, vine aspect, elevation, and climate.  It offers an authentic – and inimitable -  taste of the landscape, protected by a dynamic consorzio and bestowed the unique privilege of safeguarding its heritage for the generations to come.