Provence: crafting the best rosés in the world

Buoyed by its glamorous image and international cachet, Vins de Provence rosé is an unstoppable force. It remains one of the world’s most popular regional ‘brands’, producing exceptional wines that are enjoyed year round. But most importantly, an entrenched myth concerning the style’s homogeneity has been laid to rest. The rosé category is incredibly diverse, running the whole gamut from fresh, elegant wines to exotic cuvées matured in barrique – powerfully structured and complex. Styles, weights and aromatic profiles all differ enormously.

This variety is founded upon Vins de Provence’s mosaic of unique terroirs – expressed in different appellations, Côtes de Provence, Coteaux Varois en Provence and Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence – grape varieties and ongoing innovation; Vins de Provence’s progressive wine culture is a poster child for contemporary French viticulture.

The area under vine is expansive, stretching from west of Aix-en-Provence to within touching distance of Cannes. Today 90% of Vins de Provence’s annual production is rosé; 71% of all wines made in the Provence region (red, white and rosé) are marketed under the Côtes de Provence AOP.

An eclectic palate of vineyard sites encompassing the five sub-appellations of Côtes de Provence La Londe, Côtes de Provence Pierrefeu, Côtes de Provence Notre-Dame des Anges, Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire and Côtes de Provence Fréjus – featuring limestone and schist soils, warmed by sunshine for over 250 days each year and lulled by the cooling Mistral breeze – yield particularly fragrant and elegant rosé wines.

Their aromas are seductive: notes of fresh flowers, yellow fruits (melon, peach) and red fruits (strawberry, raspberry, cherry) are coupled with touches of citrus zest, tropical fruits and marshmallow. Their palate exudes a supple, rounded feel, counterbalanced by a varying degree of crispness, depending on the vineyard site.

An eclectic palate of vineyard sites yield particularly fragrant and elegant rosé wines

Indeed, although Provence basks in a quintessentially Mediterranean climate, differences in elevation and aspect create a patchwork of microclimates; temperatures are far cooler inland than in the coastal vineyards, particularly at night. The enclave of the Coteaux Varois en Provence AOP is a pertinent example of this climatic variation; sheltered by the Massif de la Ste-Baume, vineyards ripen at a slower pace in this appellation, yielding beautifully pale pink rosés, celebrated for their minerality and freshness. In the west, AOC Coteaux d’Aix-en- Provence is bordered by the Rhône and Durance rivers, producing vibrant and structured wines from fruit grown on calcareous soils. As a result, the rosés here are shimmering and vibrant with light colours of salmon pink, peach, lychee and clean pink reflections.

Pauline Chardin - CIVP

IMPORTANCE OF TERROIR

Terroir, of course, is a vital part of the quality equation: a magical combination of soil, situation and climate is responsible for Provence’s inimitable flavours and aromatic complexity. Yet grape varieties are no less important – Vins de Provence winemakers elect to work with a diverse palate of grape varieties, including Syrah, Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Carignan and Tibouren. Each property will craft a specific blend according to their requirements; great rosés are made using a combination of exceptional terroir and winemaking techniques: the use of indigenous yeasts or specific rosé yeasts, ultra precise management of cold temperature, protection from oxidation and, occasionally, oak fermentation and/or maturation. The reason? If the brand desires a more structured and gastronomic wine, then judicious use of wood can sometimes be beneficial: it brings richness without sweetness. However, many super-premium wines are not aged in wood at all.

It is also a region wholeheartedly committed to sustainability. There are currently 6,666ha of organic vineyards (24% of total) producing wine in Provence, in addition to 10,382ha (37%) that have been awarded HVE certification; 345 wineries (66%) have an environmental certification of some sort, while 247 producers (49%) are organic. Meanwhile, Vins de Provence is working towards a goal of 100% environmental certification by 2030, introducing new varieties – Rousseli, Agiogitiko, Calabrese, Moschofilero and Xinomavro – to help combat global warming. The pioneering work of the Centre du Rosé, the only research centre in the world dedicated to rosé, has been invaluable in exploring ways to preserve freshness, balance and aromatic expression in the face of higher temperatures and ripeness levels.

There are currently 6,666ha of organic vineyards producing wine in Provence

Vins de Provence has also widened the remit to include social and economic responsibility. Thus, in September 2021, Provence launched the first wine industry project (EnViProv) as part of the nationwide ‘France Relance’ recovery plan designed to revitalise the French economy and speed up environmental, industrial, and social change in France post Covid-19. The programme, which ran until September 2023, aimed to structure the transition to agroecology in the region. Indeed, sustainability lies at the heart of every decision taken by growers, winemakers and investors. As a proud member of France’s diverse wine industry, Vins de Provence has led the way in galvanising stakeholders in the region, encouraging the dissemination of best practices and shared objectives.

Vins de Provence is no stranger to innovation and renewal. Yet at the heart of the category’s success is the inimitable qualities of Provençal rosé: the style is made worldwide, however, other regions cannot replicate Provence’s terroir and therefore cannot reproduce its unique aromatic profile and superlative quality. Diversity, originality and accessibility are fundamental to Provence’s wine culture and traditions. More than any other wine style, it has demonstrated an unrivalled ability to speak to modern expectations and audiences. In a rapidly changing world, this gives Provence rosé a powerful advantage over the competition. Santé!

» Find out more at vinsdeprovence.com