Prestige cuves for autumn release

Published: 23 July, 2008

1998 Dom Prignon

The latest Dom Prignon vintage, 1998, was offered to a group of UK journalists at Chteau Saran on 28 June by chef de caves Richard Geoffroy. This most metaphysical of winemakers used the opportunity to expound the philosophy behind both Dom Prignon and the recently disgorged mature vintages in the OEnothque range.

In accordance with Henriot's policy of releasing wines only when fully ready, it did not disgorge the wine, the last of a superb '88, '89, '90 trio, until September 2004. A

hedonistic, powerful, rich and toasty wine, it has been well worth the wait, and still has a long future.

The wine takes its intriguing name from the cellar workers whose intimate knowledge of different cuves allowed them to assemble the ideal blend for ageing. Henriot's candid chef de cave, Odilon de Varine, whose ability is matched only by his modesty, explained that while the vintage wines were an expression of the year from a house perspective, Cuve des Enchanteleurs is an image of the house in the style of a

particular year. This difference in approach was dramatically illustrated through a tasting of the '88, '89 and '90 vintages in ros, vintage and Cuve des Enchanteleurs. The 1990 wines were all more flamboyant than the 1989s, and softer than the 1988s, but still showed marked differences. These may be

attributed in part to the

different blends - the vintage 43% Chardonnay/57% Pinot Noir, the Enchanteleurs 57% Chardonnay/43% Pinot Noir. As de Varine stressed, though, the village origin of the base wines is far more influential than the varietal split.

The 1990 Enchanteleurs will be on sale from September at 69.99. For further information contact John E Fells on 01442 870 900.

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