Geoffrey Dean: Italian wine harvest in Marche

A blisteringly hot August in central Italy has led to a fall in grape production of 10-15% in the region according to one of the leading winemakers in the Marche. Mirko Morbidoni, the man behind the Domodimonti wines that are catching the eye of wine judges in the UK, said that some of the hottest temperatures he can remember obliged him to start harvesting in early September.

"Last year we did not finish harvesting the montepulciano until November 5, but we did by early October this year," Morbidoni told Harpers. "In August, we had 40-degree days for two to three weeks when it does not normally go above 30 or 35C. It was exceptionally hot...and the same in Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio with production down for almost everybody."

By picking early, Morbidoni was able to ensure that sugar, and consequently alcohol, levels were not too high. "We have 13.5 to 14% alcohol, less than the previous very hot year, 2007, when it was 14.5 to 15," he continued. "In general, we have better quality grapes - the concentration can be very great, especially in our petit verdot and our two white grapes, passerina and pecorino."

It was not all good news for Domodimonti, whose 45 hectares under vine lie in the picturesque hills south of Ancona on the Adriatic coast. Some vineyards were hit by, of all things, hail in August, leading to a 40% loss of fruit in the affected areas. Consequently, the winery, which is owned by Dr Francesco Bellini, the scientist who played a leading role in the discovery of the anti-AIDS drug retrovirol, will see its annual production reduced from 150,000 to around 125,000 bottles.

Morbidoni, 32, is forging a reputation as one of Italy's most talented young winemakers. "I am a perfectionist," he admits. "I can't say if my wines are better - different yes. Our motto at Domodimonti is 'amore per la nostra terra' or 'love for our land.' We have a way of producing wine in a traditional way."

That includes no added tannins nor acid in the wines; no reverse osmosis to reduce alcohol; mechanical rather than chemical filtration; no use of additives for stabilization or colouring; and around half the permitted levels of sulphur. As Dr Bellini likes to tell you, "Drink as much of my wines as you like in the evening, and you will not wake up with a hangover."

* Geoffrey Dean is a cricket writer for The Times and has recently been accepted on to the MW student programme

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